Maybe this is old news since the book was published about 20 years ago but I just finished it on my trip back from the west coast last night and it was a really fun read. The writing and stories are fine but what I really liked is how so many of the legends of surfing are woven into Mike's story and history of growing up in Southern California and spending time on the North Shore in the early 60s. His story gives context and adds real life detail to so many of the names and places that are now famous and part of surfing history; higly recommended.
I remember reading this years ago and liking it - but I couldn't tell you what it's about it was a long time ago
