Today was really amazing. NJ had really solid head high set barrels today that broke forgivingly! I got worked a few times today but also had some rides that are stuck in my head. I had to share because my girl could care less. I wish I was into her as much as im into surfing these days. She's being a real beach right now, trying to ruin my stoke buzz.
Glad it was happening in NJ today. DE and OCMD were a bust if you didn't get out before 11. There will always be a next time. On a good note, I did find I like my board as a thruster on steep faces vice a quad. I have a little more drive and direction keeping on the take off. Just wish I had some more waves to practice on today.
Yup, I made the trip to north jerz today and scored, as many of you did too. pretty crowded everywhere but found a jetty that wasnt as consistent as some other spots but it was just me a buddy and one other guy, and we scored barrels and rippable faces all afternoon. it was also nice to surf non death drop barrels, not that they werent there to be had. a lot of fun waves today
IMO, if she doesn't like the surfing now, marriage won't make her like it more. BTW, glad you got some got some good rides today. Nothing quite like that down here in VB, but still had fun this afternoon.
The waves forgivingly broke a few boards around here today. Repost, I guess you missed it: This was an average 1-2' overhead wave.
Hah. My girls alright just doesn't share my love of surfing. But she gets that it keeps me happy and doesn't mess with it too much. She just didnt want to hear about my 2 second barrel. But Doug, yes there were some really heavy waves, but around here when its head high its usually meaner. Not that today wasn't, but opposed to most head high storm crushers that are difficult to duck dive, today was more gracious on my broken body.
where I was was all time yesterday. love the winter. stayed out 5.5 hours in 40 degree water. must be some sort of cold water record. cant move the shoulder today. all time. beter than the thanksgiving swell. sounds like the whole coast was firing!
Yeah, yesterday was good. I even had a little National Geographic moment yesterday as I waited for the last wave. Out of the corner of my eye I was called to attention and saw some commotion aboot 30 yards south. I saw a bunch of splashing and it appeared that something was chasing something else. I mean, water was being kicked up 3-4 feet above the surface. That seal was out there again. Every frickin time, which I find really strange. Was it him giving chase to something? I don't know. You guys who don't like the crowds of North Jersey(Eww Yuck) probably wouldn't like being solo all winter either. OMG, it gets so creepy. School kid: Man, you don't miss waves to study. Can't you fit in an hour or two surf and still study? You should keep up on your school work during the semester so you don't have to cram the day before. Don't worry aboot education, just watch Jeopardy in the evenings and you'll learn everything you need to know. Can't your daddy get you into Yale? My daddy only was able to get me into Dartmouth which I always found appalling. I have never forgiven him for that.
Oh I'm not being snarky here, so don't naybody get upset, but the term "epic" gets thrown around way too much. Epic means, like, once in a decade......like, the best surf in a decade. Every swell that's over four foot now gets called "epic." And that wave pictured is pushing 6 foot.
Paddington!!! so did you see the seal after the spashing or before??? could it have been... I mean is there sharks (opps, I said it) around here?? I was surfing kinda solo yesterday (some guys at the next jetty down), and had the thought... then looked down in the water, saw some shadows, then starting thinking again... then a set came... drop in, get barreled... paddle back out then wait some more time... anyways- you know it bro! #AlwaysEpicInBelmar (sorry pjb- I couldn't resist...)
yesterday was fun. i was three beers and 4 tacos in when i paddled out. all my blood supply was near my gut digesting food and sucking up alcohol, so i instantly felt cold when my face hit the water. plus, it was the first time testing out my new/used board (thanks craigslist!). that being said, i took 3 right on the head right off the bat because i was half buzzed and feeling cocky. after the instant humbling/sobering, i then started to catch a few fun ones and tried to figure the board out. lots of foam under the chest, drawn out pintail, single-fin. so much fun. could use a bit more rocker for days like yesterday. can't wait to try it out again.
A couple good ones... but a bunch of poundings up here once the tide hit low. Totally dredging, heaving barrels. Saw one guy get like a 5 second tuberide... and wished it was me!
Southern ME was good yesterday. Not great, and therefore not EPIC. Way overhead, but some chop and side-shore texture. I was out for 2 hours in the gorgeous sun and had an overall wonderful experience. Best day of the winter so far. There were 5 of us in the water, no seals, one bird, no sharks. Love it up here. It was a nice warm day. Perfect for identifying a new leak in the wetty.
