Great video but it didn't discuss sand trajectories. To get the complete picture people will need this book.
What's the matter, you don't think your spot can handle it? This was the MSW forecast for my area last year before Irma. At the time she was forecast to go straight up the east coast of Florida. I could probably deal with the wave height but those onshore winds woulda been kinda ridiculous.
MSW always exagerrating, especially winds. just got rid of their app cuz they're no longer giving that 10 day extended forecast fo free
Wind prediction here looks like it's onshore from various directions (NE to SE) at 20+ MPH from Saturday to Thursday with wave heights head high or greater. That's going move a lot of sand. Frosty's gonna get a boner....
SwellInfo's forecast was no more or less ridiculous. Remember this was several days before landfall and Irma was forecast to rip right up the east coast. Had that happened the winds here could have been much more. Where I live it is best to not put much trust in any wave forecasts. I believe it when I see it. And surf it.
Ground swells are usually the best sources of waves for surfing. When strong and intense storms and wind affect the seas, they produce "wave trains" that make their way to the shores, where they lose energy. These long-distance winds produce the fetch. The fetch is the area in which the winds apply their forces.
Dude! Compress that number when it hits shallow water... that is gonna be a massive face if the beach can handle it. Is it a deep water to shallow water set up or a gradual beach break? I know if it goes bigger than 12-14’ and long period, our beach can’t handle the swell and it crumbles and piles up onshore and is nothing but a slamming rip and undertow fest.
