Hi Dudes. Just writing that I'm still on AI and will be surfing all week here. Trying to get used to the bi fin fish. I mean I'm trying to catch a wave on it after I get used to where board wants to have me on it and I learn how much more paddle stroke it needs to hook up with a wave. My funboard being repaired and ready for this Thursday is so much easier to paddle and grab waves. I can't wait to bond with the fish. I had a guy want to buy it from me at the beach yesterday and his exhuberance about wanting it told me I got a board that's gotta be worth getting to know. Now I know many here won't believe me- I went out yesterday, Sunday and out toward head high lips. I learned paddling out was so hard and tiring and I am impressed I even got to the edge of the inside. Less than 30 feet away from the line up; My arms were too tired to carry me further. What a workout though. I was told by one of the surf shop guys I'm not a real kook if I "charged out into board breakin' waves". And I really did try but I am so sore today. I took day off to rest and will go out again tomorrow 10/4. I also restarted using a useless Twitter account to share with guys that may want to twit back advice as they read my daily tweets about my surfing outings. My twitter ID is gruvi12 if you want to follow along with a guy trying hard to rid his "Kook" Thanks for any more advice Guys! G
I was there sunday and today. I have been on gruvi spotting alert. Post a pic. I keep thinking any face i dont know is gruvi.
Thanks and its a true event, not a story I saw a lot of experienced surfers paddling hard to get through and even they took a while to get outside. They weren't staying out for long either because of how waves were breaking so hard overhead. When I went out I was thinking to myself, "what are you doing?!" One of the surf shop guys that was there with me that complimented me on trying, crossed himself before going out. I say a whole prayer for real!
I think of it as if you cannot paddle out there it's not meant to be. By the time you gain expierience on that same size day you will slip out past the break and then your ready for the next step.
believable up to this point...head high is not a situation that calls for crossing oneself prior to paddle out. i now believe that you are full of it.
Were you the guy with super short hair wearing boots that changed from his 4/3 to his 3/2 on Sunday, wearing boots? I saw same guy out today putting on his boots next to a black chair on the beach. Or were you there early morning? On Sunday I went early in a.m. and at 4ish p.m. Today we didn't surf and just walked the beach to catch one of the most wonderous site...a family of dolphins, around six, all playing and unbelievably, SURFING! They really looked to be surfing, sometimes jump clear of the water. Sometimes it looked like they competed for a spot in the swell and more than once all six caught a wave tightly together! I could see them clearly within the wave faces. It was just a vision ords can't relate to. I felt so lucky to see them playing for at least a half hour in the same spot. I LOVE surfing!
Im on vacation until thursday. I might take some pics tommorow of people out and post them and we could do a what pic is gruvi poll.
I left from obx half a mile left of avalon pier in the morning and drove back to the home break chincoteague probably 5pm i knew 1 guy and had saw the other 2 before but there was a guy on a longboard or funboard that i had only seen until recently.
just can't resist the gruvi.... some who claim not to care do seem to follow each post... hey gruvi, remember the arc of your surfing experience is personal...the rate at which you accelerate or stall in advancing is individual, so keep plugging away as best you can. ultimately, what some other creature thinks is irrelevant. the only person on that wave...or eating that sand..is you....