Haha this needs commenting

so true imho

 

I'm ok with #1.

Saw two dudes ripping on single fins Sunday. Surfing them the way they should be surfed, to the point that I knew they were riding single fins when I first saw them 50 yds down the lineup. Bet ya they surf better than the author of the article.

 

author's got a seriously myopic view of what surfing "should" be...i can see some of the "cultural" stuff, but why ***** about ANYTHING design related? different strokes for different folks, right? some like the typical thruster hpsb, some like alaias, some like heavily glassed single fin longboards, etc...i mean, wayne lynch absolutely kills it on his finless creations.

 

#8 is by far the best rule.

 

Haha, great post. Dude NAILED it. And I am not going to offend anyone on here, as in recent weeks, I have learned that there are a lot of single fin enthusiasts. But this article reminds me of SOOOO many people that I would encounter on the west coast. As we all know, the "FISH" as we know it was originally developed and made popular in the San Diego, many, many moons ago. At the time, it was ground breaking, but back in 2005ish, when all the little hipster local kiddies were reviving this, getting these huge swallow tails, with the big keels and surfing them... Sure, some of these guys were VERY talented, but I have seen them on HPSBs and then to see them on these old "Retro" boards made me want to vomit. It just destroyed their real style and ability and it was mostly, to me, to look like "that guy"... The guy who doesn't want to be mainstream. I don't want to be in all the mags. I don't want to compete, "I just want to be me"... And so many other shapers and surfers agreed with me. Its like sure, on a knee high, crap day on a reef, sure, break out some weird board, but when it's firing, don't kid yourself and paddle out on technology that went obsolete like 30 years ago.

I have seen guys with SICK style on single find longboards, but for the guys breaking out those weird, "Roy Board", mid sized 7-8 foot teardrop single fins because they saw Rob Machado do it in shelter are just contributing to ugly surfing... There is nothing wrong with reliving the past, or reminiscing, but man, this guy nailed it. Riding Crap wave vehicles, just masks the fact that your surfing probably leaves a lot to be desired and your style is garbage on a real, modern surfboard....

I'm all for trying new things in the water, but don't make it a way of life. I mean, unless you have an abacus on your desk and you write letters to people to communicate, don't be that guy....

Great read though... filled with hate, but so much truth.

 

see, i found that riding a mid-6ft single fin really smoothed my style out when i got back on a more conventional craft...& i think most surfers who ride a hpsb could really benefit from smoothing out their "style".

 

Like I said, it's just my opinion. I'm not saying that its like that for everyone. I will give my generic disclaimer: Whatever you enjoy riding....

I've just seen too many, incredibly talented surfers turn into pumpkins on these old throw back designs. If you are into those boards, and ride them regularly and tune in the style, cool, but even the best of surfers always end up doing that, hands in the air, balancing act like they are about to tip over everytime they try and make any kind of turn... Sure, they can lock into a line and make it look smooth, but damn, watching a guy on a beautiful, huge open shoulder on Sunset Cliffs have to take this HUUUUUGE arc, grabbing rail and finishing the roundhouse, only to not have enough time to turn back into the wave and finish the figure eight. TO me, its just wasting part of the wave... To me, a lot of surfing is utilizing every part of the wave and making the most of it, through turning and reacting... Those boards aren't built to turn or react. period.

I mean, I can see it being cool at pipeline on a HUGE day, but if you have any kind of turning to do, its just silly to me. There are just better ways to do things, thats just my opinion....

Im not saying that you have to conform, but I think its hypocrisy when a lot of guys say "Im not going to conform to the modern design theories" yet they are part of a HUGE group of anti people that are in a similar movement on the other side of the tracks...

 

while i agree w/ that sentiment, it assumes that their motivation for riding a particular craft is intentionally non-conformist. i got on mine originally b/c it seemed like a cool board to ride, no reason other than that & i was bored on thrusters.

 

Right. I was referring to my earlier post on this thread about the SoCal movement that happened when I was out there. It was the coffee sipping, tight pant wearing kids that rode those skateboards that were like 8 inches long. So short that they couldn't even fit both feet on. Riding down to check the surf, then mucking up the lineup an hour later with their ridiculous boards....

Im not saying you. To each their own... I just think that it became a BIG trend out in the SoCal surf industry mecca. But to me, it was just novelty sh**. I appreciate anyone who has a crazy quiver and has the balls to go out on a good day and challenge their own paradigm... Im not talking about those guys. Im talking about the 95% of guys on those ridiculous fish and single fins out at blacks. I mean, when you are a great surfer, and you make blacks on a good day LOOK bad, you aren't doing it right. I have seen half-novices accidentally get barreled there. Im just saying, when I see guys show up at world class spots, LJ Reefs and all that on those boards, they just waste waves and get beat down the whole time. And im talking about talented guys....

 

+1. All I really ride nowa days are singles. And when I do get on a thruster my surfing is ten times better then when all I used to ride was thrusters. With that being said, it really comes down to preference and style. If your getting on a board because you want to be diffrent, then the doing it for the wrong reason. Get on the weird board if you like it and it works for you. Everything else on there that isn't design related I agree with. That guys undies was deffinitly in a bunch

 

Not bad for a youngin', I'd have to him on a single fin I guess.

 

the author writes so well about pretentious douches, its like he is one or something

 

The only reason I would love a single fin short board is because I love my longboard.

 

+1 Thank you for saving me time.

 

didn't read the article but since youse are speaking about single fins I think they are cool.and if u can rip on a single then go to a thruster youll definitely be charging.i have future fins so somedays il ride it as a single and some days il ride it as a twin.i rarely ride it as a thruster,its just good to change it up and not ride the same setup every time

 

I don't really agree with the logic that riding a single fin is being nostalgic or whatever that dude said. I never thought of it that way. I just surf the LB that way because I like how it rides. It came as a 2+1 but when I dropped the side bites it got so much more maneuverable and is way smoother of a ride. Could be all in my head but that's my story. On my Coil I go with a thruster / quad setup, depending on my mood. There's no wrong way to eat a Reese's...