Halloween Swell '91 Surfing RC's in Florida Perfect Storm 1991

I think we had cuts on our feet the whole time we were out surfing

definitely once we got back home across the inlet. There was so much water moving it was

hard to time it when you started to grab a boulder and climb out of the water onto the jetty wall.

You'd get drilled by the surge, and barnacle bill would get you. I know I've surfed reef road bleeding a few

times from getting over the jetty, then you'd see sharks hanging out on the bottom, water so clear you'd see the

gills. Waves so big, so perfect, so crystal clear, you don't care if you get bit.