The other break you are referring to is not at all a high tide break and that was dead high tide at that time. So those were kooks if they were heading there. They're also kooks if they preferred to sip their latte wearing their beanies and talking about how they were waiting for their set. These are the same people that are still sitting by the fire telling the family about the 100-year storm they witnessed this morn. Maybe you hit the jackpot but anyone I know who was there charged avalanches that were consistently closing out. Still gotta do it, but that's the lone documented report of walls and faces at said break with 33+ mph offshores. Points north were the regime today and yesterday. Rhodey was sick too from the pics I saw.
Update on northern NE - if there's not a lot of posts from here, I'm gonna go ahead and say it's because a lot of people scored... and then were late for Thanksgiving... at their own place... awkward... but worth it . Crazy offshores at the spot I was at, but after you adjusted for it it was super fun. The close outs looked like a frames coming in and the ones that looked like you were gonna take it on the head would back off and line up perfectly. Wonky and tough to judge so we just went on everything haha. Most times you'd get a fun short ride and then get smashed if you tried to pull in - not completely hollow, but like halfway. But once every few waves it was let you out gently. You definitely needed extra stroke or two every time but once you adjusted it was a fun day. Hope everyone got some and happy turkey day!
A spot in rhode island near ma this morning was great because instead of onshore/sideshore it was mostly offshore and pretty big. Quite a few guys out. Anyone know how the kid who took his board to the jaw is doing? Saw a few guys get barrelled and I'm stoked on almost linking up a pretty drawn out backside cutback and sustaining some of the worst spills I've had nin a while. Second year in a row of similar surfing at nearly the same spot on thanksgiving. Glad a lot of yu guys down south made iut well too...
First time out since shoulder surgery a lill over a month ago. Had to use the sup cause I don't quite have the range of motion to paddle yet. Some nice long lines stomachish high in s fl. Stoked to get back out again!
That's accurate in all respects. Funny about the "...awkward", so on point. Good score brah. Would've headed there if I made a significant drive today but opted not to. Saw pics and it looked great. Props on the solid ride and even more props on hard spills. Valor. Have taken my board to the jaw a few times and that's no treat. Good to see your barrell spelling is proper, nice work.
in central new jersey, we got some real jems the past two days. got to get barreled this morning (closeouts but anythings alright at this point), go to work with some stoke and jam food. hopefully plenty got to share some thanksgiving waves and feasts! found this edit from yesterdays swell, which was just gigantic here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNkM1p5IkfA I paddled out yesterday, got one wave and then got smashed up on the pilings breaking my boards nose. couldn't even be mad, far too much stoke
Morning was real fun in Monmouth county. Hook looked flat and blown out, 5 miles south was super fun. But a little cold. Best drug in the world.
I am thoroughly Thankful, wasn't able to get out yesterday morning, but Wed was a lot of fun... One really bizarre thing happened on Wed that had me thinking, maybe I should be extremely thankful, after one of my first rides, I had jumped off my board on the inside, went to get back on my board and had my feet on the sandbar...there was something huge that was getting tangled in my legs or swimming through my leg, it's so hard to describe...but it was super bizarre...have no clue what it was, but if it was a shark, I am thankful the f$cker didn't have me for his thanksgiving feast.
