Just wondering how many other surfers around here blow off important responsibilities and drive over an hour to put on 5mm of rubber, while cramped inside thier car trying to stay warm. Than reverse the process...than do it again next swell. Is it "hardcore"?, cause my wife thinks its obssesive?
Has your wife talked to mine! Yeah my wife says I am totally obsessed. I drive 2.5 hours, surf all day then grab a coffee and drive home listening to hard rock with the window down. Then recap each wave I caught in my brain. It is a shame for us married folk that a swell comes every Valentines Day! More waves for you single peeps though. Got any good reasons to use...I use it mellows me out.
"blow off important responsibilities" I think some of us have moved past "hardcore" some time ago. If it takes you until you are almost 40 to finish your Masters, I would say you need to get professional help. I know I needed rehab a good 5 years ago, and I get worst everyday. Of course being able to walk across the street for a surf check, or 10 to 20 mins. from every crap break we have around here does not help matters. Maybe I just need a trip,<<ha, ha . No I mean a real trip to somewhere,...real. But then I would most likely be worst then before. Best bet is to take care of the responsibilities first, while setting yourself up for the never ending tube ride hey,.. take a look Mike Stewart..........44 years old and killing it! <<<<<Still! Still plenty of time for me to get it together and live the dream, even more then I am now.
