i agree +1 i surf in delaware regularly and i made a trip to cabo in the spring and i was pulling into head high peelers like it was my job
Locals are lazy. Well, thanks for admitting that you are a liar. That makes me feel a bit better. You are obviously the old donkey drapped in a time warp. You are a clown, talking about pipe like you know. I don't know about pipe, but i do know about reefs. I surf them every day. If you think a reef breaks with more power than a beah break, you need a lesson in physics and surfing. You are a fuc**ing moron... I was giving Hatteras more credit than you think. I am telling you that Hatteras can ALMOST ALWAYS only hold around 8 feet of swell.... Lets do the science ok.... The topography offshore is extremely deep which makes it have nice power. But the PROBLEM with hatteras is that it accepts like 90% windswell and much less than 10% solid groudswell. So yes, theoretically on the right long period ground swell sent from the south west of Africa, on a warm sunny day with light wind, yeah you can surf 12-15 foot surf there. MAYBE.... But like I said TOOL, I am from OC MD, and it gets WINDSWELL all year too. And its real short, real small interval, rally punch beach break... So if you sidagree with any of the above, re-evaluate your argument. I am saying the reefs in CALI have about 1/2 the power that ANY beach break around here has. SURF SWAMIS and then surf blacks and few miles down the coast... TWO VERY DIFFERENT BEASTS... And until you built an artificial reef in front of your house, I think maybe you should stick to single fins and pot old timer.
Not to jump on you man, but where the hell do you actually live? LOL. Anyhow, just to add my two cents, everything just depends on what the bottom is doing. I can tell you that I've surfed overhead Haliewa in HI, which is obviously a reef break, and it was not even close to as steep as a chest day in Frisco in OBX, or as hollow for that matter. So it really all depends. Also, OBX will definitely hold 8+, but you have to know where to go. For example, Frisco has a 2nd (or 3rd, depending on where you are) sandbar that doesn't even show until there is about 8 to 10 feet of swell. It's about a mile out. You can see SUPs out there sometimes to prove it.
west coast = more forgiving waves (much easier when bigger than east coast waves) everybody who's surfed good sized west coast knows this! (much longer rides, too!)
OBX All the way. with NJ second. specifically a secret spot in rodanthe and other spots in hatteras such as ramp 55 for example. ivve gotten worked the most in obx. those overhead swells will sucker punch you so hard. but once you ride them, it is worth it
StuckinVA: hehe =). I live on sunset cliffs in San Diego... But yeah, I agree with what you are all saying. Im with ya. My point about the reefs was this: If Pipeline didn't have a reef underneath of it, the entire beach and every house on the shore would never be there. The whole place would be under water. If there was no reef to slow down the force of that water and jack the face up, then it wouldnt even be there. Same with in Tahiti. Yeah, there are huge waves going over the reef, but if it went from 2000 feet deep to 2 feet deep like that and it was a sandbar, it would probably be even more scary. It would also take out everything in its path and the whole beach would actually be the bottom of the shoreline. Ohh well Its an interesting conversation. But I think we all agree that when open ocean swell meets the shoer and there is only sand slowing it down, the mother fu**er is gonna slam pretty hard on the shore... Thats all Im saying... And Again, I wasn't trying to say that OBX is not capable of ever holding that, I was just pointing out that OBX gets mostly choppy short interval windswell which doesn't usually allow long tapering 10 foot sets to creep in cleanly. It usually macking windswell there. And again, there are long period groundswells that hit OBX and im sure the place goes Balistic... But, like I said before. I know that the OBX guys, especially on here promote the fact that there aren't 1 million cameras out everwhere there, and that there are guys chargin crazy waves without getting any media attention... But on the other hand, I was just saying that Everyone from Miami to Maine knows when OBX is gonna go off, so when those 10 foot swells are there, shouldnt every pro on the whole east coast be out there filming and getting shots??? Ive just never seem ONE photo of OBX any larger than 8 feet. I have seen some 12-14 giant windswell sets, but it was EMPTY. There was not a human in the water.... So, I was just saying, doesn't someone on here have some kind of photos of ANYWHERE in OBX 10ft +++ I am just curious to see how crazy the waves look that big over there with someone actually on it... The photo from OBX in this thread from before is HEAVY as sh*(* for sure, but the hawaiians would call that about a 6-7 footer... solid as sh** tho.
Not sure how big Noel got on the Banks, but this looks pretty heavy to me: http://islandfreepress.org/Archives/2007.11.07-SurfingHurricaneNoel/index.html
Now that looks like it was fun!! Pretty clean considering the wave heights. There are some definate jems in there. Nice!
haha yeah looks sweet. Hurricane Noel a few years back - pics from Daniel Pullen, a great local surfer and photographer. Wish I had been there...
locals are lazy = idiot. If any of you have been to the west coast or anything other than a beachy and don't agree with zach you are a idiot also. I will be back on the west side in less then a month for trip #900. I know it will be august so chances of getting a good swell just won't happen but a nice couple of headhigh days will be better then what we have got here in NJ for the whole month of july. I can't even remember the last time I was in the water. Anyway I would have to say a few spots north of New York would light up better than OBX and Jersey. Make sure to bring your 6mm. It seems as though most of you on here from from OBX/Del/NJ so of course you are saying those spots are heavy. Get out more.
This thread is about East Coast waves man. Of course us East Coasters are going to provide the majority of the input. Locals-- good discussion. I agree with you that the North Shore would get destroyed without the reef acting as a proxy for the swell. There is only one place I've been to that gets macking swell, over sandbar, where there are hotels and bars right on the beach and it is Playa Hermosa in Costa Rica. I don't know how they do it, but they manage to keep those buildings in tact with very good waves breaking over sandbar. I wish they could do that over here.