Hello Everyone, I'm new here

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by eppo, Jun 6, 2019.

  1. ChavezyChavez

    ChavezyChavez Well-Known Member

    Jun 20, 2011
    Wind direction. Wind speed. Swell direction. Swell period. Wind and swell direction in relation to the direction your beach faces. Obviously swell height.
    Have you done any sand reconnoitering?
  2. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Not to mention if there are Orios on the beach that may or may not cause your sand reconneasance be squuuud.

  3. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Here's a grand idea genius..... if your going to come on here asking for the goods we all spent years and years to learn, why don't you tell us where you surf.

    Crazy concept i know. Somthing tells me your app won't work. If your not smart enough to tell us where you surf (are you sure you've been surfing since 92?) I can't imagine your smart enough to create an app.

    Don't get too upset. Im half joking. But seriously, you do realize the east coast isn't all the same, right?
  4. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    Dude. Forgive me for saying so, but your syntax sounds a lot like Alexa. Next thing you know, your getting spammed to your eyeballs with Hindu Hooker ads. The boys here were just administering the sniff test. You gotta admit, most bodyboarders are usually a little saltier, dude.

    Anyways, we usually get this conversation from a newb once or twice a year. And, as such, we give them a huge ration of shit because, as a newb kook or grom, they all seem to believe that there is a magic formula that makes good waves.

    While this is somewhat true in a broad sense, the truth is that forecasting is not an exact science. Magic Seaweed (MSW) and that stupid star system they use is basically convoluted crap and does more to clog my break with kooks than Surfline's shitty fucast. I see more kooks rock up on the shittiest days just because they saw 5 stars on MSW, I'm so over it.

    Your local is probably completely different than the sandbar 2 blocks south of you. The way you learn what makes your local break go off is to...wait for it...actually surf your break. If you use the NOAA buoys and take note of the angle of your particular beach, you will notice in short order which winds, swells and tides work best four your local.

    That's how we all do it. That's how knowledgeable surfers do it, they studied and learned and surf their spots on days when guys leaning on the forecasts seem to get perpetually skunked.

    So forget the apps and formulas, that's sabremetric nerd stuff. Go out and surf and study and learn your break.

    Ya gotta learn it to earn it

    EDIT: You're still required to post photos of your (hopefully female) significant other
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2019
  5. Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2010
    Dear Peppa... oh sorry I meant Eppe

    To help answer your question, I understand your frustration. Spend enough time on magic seaweed and you’ll go crazy...

    Swellinfo . Com is the premiere surf prediction website...

    Thankfully you said you live on the east coast. The best Advice I can give is forget the forecast and just drive to and surf BELMAR!!! Seriously the best wave around, and THERE IS ALWAYS a wave in Belmar, the place literally never goes flat.

    Don’t worry about all the other guys, they are really trying to help too in each of their own ways...

    Your pal
    Mr Belmar

    Btw, Swellinfo.com does offer great medical advice. I recently received my PhD from USI and try to help where I can... poor Kanman really went thru the wringer, he’s not the same man he used to be
  6. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
  7. eppo

    eppo Member

    Jun 6, 2019
    I Surf Gilgo Beach on the south shore of Long island. The app doesn't have to be super accurate, its just a way to reset my priorities. We can go a few weeks here during the summer with no waves, so a notification reminding me to start checking the forecasts will help me out.
  8. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    I can’t remember missing waves b/c I was unaware there was a swell. I’m sure I have but it would be very rare.

    Like roque, I just pay attention to weather, and buoy data. Yesterday was a good example. I watched these little pulses 15 seconds for 24 hours along with local steep angled wind swell. It wasn’t enough to get me in the water but it had my attention.

    A go surfing alarm clock seems like your taking the fun out of it IMO.
    DawnPatrol321 likes this.

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    Nov 16, 2016
    Did y’all see some images, cuz I didn’t.
    Scrub it, KOOK!
    Yankkee, DawnPatrol321 and La_Piedra like this.
  10. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    everyone here is telling you what you need to do, but it appears that you're not listening.

    If you think checking an app every couple of days or weeks during the summer, the flattest time of the year, and actually think you're going to score, then maybe you should try another activity. Like Competitive Clock Watching. Because your idea won't work. You're better off just looking at the MSW fucast every day. It's an app too, right? At least they get it right once in awhile...a blind squirrel even finds a nut once in awhile

    better yet, just quit surfing. It really is overrated

    P.S.---still waiting for those chick pics
  11. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    My wife saw some sign at OB Jetty that said, "kooks split". I had to explain to her what it meant lol
    SCOB3YVILLE likes this.
  12. Not zaGaffer

    Not zaGaffer Active Member

    Nov 14, 2017
    I once wrote a quick and dirty .py script that condensed a couple of years data from a single buoy into an .xlsx and then pulled it into Tableau to prove that someone on here was exaggerating how big the waves were and was totally full of Bullpoopy. It's not incredibly difficult data to analyse in isolation, however one buoy's data cannot be easily adapted to a great many breaks, even those that are local to an area mostly due to specific breaks' bathymetry and exposure to swell direction. For instance, Swellinfo uses buoy 46224 Torrey Pines and applies that info to all of NoCo San Diego, which results in a forecast for that area that is slightly more accurate than me repeatedly banging me pepis randomly against the keybort. So it's complicated.


    Welkommen and now show us der tatas
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2019
    sisurfdogg, LBCrew, La_Piedra and 5 others like this.
  13. World B Free

    World B Free Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2013
    Ah yes…the ever elusive “alchemy” that is surf forecasting.

    What you are seeking is a practical application for a process that is akin to magick. Predicting swell is only partly due to science. As others have stated, understanding local conditions as they pertain to your specific break will give you the hints you are seeking. Never the less, you must accept that it will always remain a crap-shoot. Algorithms can help but will never fully replace “local knowledge”. That understanding can only be learned by observation.

    Have you developed any resources (i.e. other watermen) in your local surfing community? Those old salts should be far more willing to share the knowledge with you than a bunch of strangers. Ultimately what you are being told is that (as long as you know how to swimme) there is no replacement for sand reconne.

    If you do truly discover the “universal solvent” then by all means share it. On the other hand you want some kind of free hand-out might I suggest government cheese? At the very least, the cheese should allow you to create a certain type of predictable “swell event”.

    I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor; or as we say around here….

    Slide On!
  14. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
  15. DonQ

    DonQ Well-Known Member

    Oct 23, 2014
    Holy crapp
    I can’t recall ever having such problems with surfing in an ocean.
    Who cuts your meat?
    metard likes this.
  16. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    ...eats Beanie Weenies
  17. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    I'm glad I caused you all that work. I stand by my statement that that day was f'ing amazing surf and you are total dbag for putting in so much effort to spoil my fun.

    Honestly who gives a flying F exactly how big it was that day? I guess you do b/c you're still bringing it up.

    It was September 12ish 2015 and it was big fun surf (by east coast standards, god forbid). Go spend a few more hours trying to prove me wrong.
  18. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
  19. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Oh goode lorde...
  20. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Odd, that's exactly where i surf. See you out there