Hi, first post here. I have 3 boards in my quiver but none seem suited best for mushy, close-out type of summer surf. I can’t remember the exact dimensions but my main two boards are made locally by Cosmic Bull Surfboards. The owner, Bill LaFleur, have been great to deal with and is a big help but I wanted to get other opinions on which direction to go also. My #1 board is a 6’5” hybrid fish thruster shaped by Tom Eadon, dimensions are 6’5” x 14” x 20 3/8” x 15 ¾” x 2 ¾”, medium rocker, 6 oz glass. My other board is also a Cosmic Bull/Tom Eadon 7’2” quad fin, tri-plane hull, dimensions 7’2” x 14 3/8 x 21 x 15 5/8 x 2 7/8 and was intended to be my smaller wave or winter board but it turns out it needs speed from bigger waves so it doesn’t work well on small surf. I’m 34 years old, 6’2” and about 200 lbs. I’ve been surfing since I was about 19 and would call myself intermediate-advanced. It’s getting harder to ride my shortboard in nominal surf as I get older! I’d like to get something easier to paddle into but not sacrifice too much maneuverability (not ready to make the longboard plunge yet). I’m pretty sure a true fish would be perfect because I can keep it short and still have the volume to paddle into anything. Something like a bonzer maybe? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! <br />
Check out the JS Pier Pony and maybe design something to that effect. You could probably go with a 5'8" and just add volume in the middle as needed.
Thanks for the suggestion, looks like it could be fun. I wonder if it could handle slightly bigger as well? Primarily I would want it for small surf but also days up to chest high. I should have probably specified that I would like something that can also hold up during the slightly bigger winter when I have the extra weight from the suit.
In that case, look into the FCD (patagonia) Fark and do something similar to that. A buddy has one and it is a great all-round board.
if you are talking about small waves ...I have grovel short boards and that is all cool in like waist high surf but anything less you want a log. I am curious to experiment with a mini simmons but I actually read that they thrive in like waist-chest high surf and I can ride other boards in that. On my 9'4 noserider I can ride seriously ankle high mush all the way into the beach.
I had a 6'4" Sharp Eye which was fun if teh waves were dumping and hollow but otherwise too much work. I'd like to stay away from the longboard end and stay somewhere in the middle
For mushy summer surf you want something short, wide, and fat with a wider tail pod and a quad setup. Low rocker, flat to vee on the bottom. That formula is proven to be best here in Jersey if you want to have fun in weak waves. The specific details of your shape and dims should be worked out with a local shaper to get the volume and foam distribution correct to optimize the board for your weight, style, and ability. Or grab a short, wide, fat quad off the rack is the second option. ~Brian www.greenlightsurfsupply.com Shape Your Surfing Experience
Thanks Brian, you pretty much confirmed what I have been thinking. Short, fat & wide with low entry rocker. What tail type and why do you say quad fin if I may ask?
I like a diamond or bat tail... both will shorten the rail line and tighten the turning radius on wide, flat boards for local surf. Flat to vee bottom or slight single to vee depending on rocker. Pair that up with slightly down rails and a full foil and you've got a a summer slop board that will work well in anything under head high.
kid... a fish is a good choice. I'm a lover of all things fishy. But I must say that there are a few modern refinements that have improved on the design considerably. I'm not saying the Lis Fish is a bad design... it's a great design, even in it's original form, and I hold it in high regard, and with great respect. But even materials have improved, let alone design tweaks, that have made the "retro fish" concept even more relevant in the modern surfing world.
[/url][/IMG] This is the Slop Rod, built off the round nose fish rockers with a single to double concave with alot of vee off the tail. Small bump wings help it turn, and the nose is left full to catch waves easy. Its a blen between a MiniSimms and a Round Nose fish. I can do full round house cuttys on a 1 foot face turns great catches ankel high surf, its fantastic. Runs off Futrue Controller Quad fins. Mine is EPS/Epoxy contysrtuction for even more float. The one you see is 5'6" x 21-3/4 " x 2-3/8" thick. CXatches the smallest ripple and is super fun in surf up to chest high. Real fast and with tons of Vee goes rail to rail quite well for such a fatty!
Thats a great shape, i've had many of them, but i never found them particularly suited to tiny (knee-stomach high) summer slop.
scotty... that's because the original design was for point surf. For our local NJ beachbreaks, you need something that creates lift, and is more responsive. Bottom contours, tail geometry, and fin setup make all the difference in the world.
check out some minisimmons designs. i picked one up a couple months ago and havent been able to put it down. really fun and a much different ride than im used to.
I'll agree with that. I like the nostalgia of a true fish but there are some definite improvements that I would include on my new board that would make more sense. I see you are from Monmouth Co. as well!
Nice looking board, I bet its fun. I think I should stick to a full nose shape as well. I'm also a big fan of Future fins, much more so than FCS.