After all the talk about "Big Waves" in the Maverick's thread, I thought it would be a good topic to discuss riding waves in the HH - DOH range, something us regular Joe's can relate with. Those of us who have experience in these conditions, post up anything you can think of that would be helpful to others. Topics should include the following: Tips on preparation, fitness, mind control, survival skills, paddling technique, duck diving, reading incoming waves and timing sets, positioning, pop-up and dropping in technique, wave riding techniques, finishing a wave / exit strategy, and anything else you might think of that could be useful in these type of conditions. All of these things are part of surfing in general, but the bigger the waves get, the more important they are. What if anything do you change when it goes from a playful chest high day to 6-10ft+? Ready.... GO!
east coast is a lil different, no channels and short period, means more difficult paddle out once you get out.....GO on EVERYTHING, pull in and love it
The biggest ive been out in on this sandbar of NC was easily 12ft sets. Prepin for something that big isnt an issue, you just gotta learn to say "f it" and go. One thing to note is dont paddle for the first set wave like you could on a head high day because when you dont catch it and you turn around and the next 3-5 are bigger than that first regret fills your mine and youre washed to the inside. Make sure you go with some buddies that you trust to have your back if things get outta hand and so you have someone to talk to while out the back, because going alone is way more frightening than with 2 good buds. Just go out there and have fun, and remember.... "You can go out there and make some fun ones, or you can go home with regret that you didnt even try" -Dune
Try not to panic and lose your cool, once you start stressing it can go down hill quick. Not only are you watching the horizon, watch others around you. Sit on the beach for a bit and watch what the waves are doing
Choose the right board.. the right volume makes paddling easier. Also, don't drink too much the night before, don't drink too much coffee the morning of, DO drink a coconut water and eat a banana.... DO NOT PULL BACK and go for it. If you fall on something big watch your ears and face (blew my eardrum out years ago and still have trouble hearing). Smack the lip, drop down, ride the barrel and get pitted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-5F_7DwPpo
Good point, we can also discuss the difference between East Coast beach breaks and tropical reef and point breaks and what changes as far as strategy and such
I'm no hero, been out on a couple days though. Ironically enough, the biggest wave I've ever ridden had the easiest paddle out, relatively at least. It was at a point up here(no not the ones you're probly thinking), with a channel. But +1 on the psychological side, stay calm. I was younger and almost did something very stupid that coulda got me hurt.
I’ll bite. Here’s what I consider waves of consequence that i don't on a playful day. • Watch the break for a sec instead of charging out like an a$$hat • Time my paddle out • Check my leash • Ride 3 fins • Stretch befor going out • Paddle with urgency • Pull out before getting inside the sandbar instead of milking the inside section • Try not to poop myself when I get caught by a set • Get out when my arms are toast instead of plowing on.
Just don't do it on the beach in front of cameras hhaahaha [video=vimeo;56840414]https://vimeo.com/56840414[/video]
If you are confident in your swimming, I always find a nice rip current to assist my paddle out when it's really rough. Don't panic during big beatdowns, always lose all my oxygen real quick if I freak out trying to surface.
Sponggnar yes, always use the rip, and if you ARENT a confident swimmer, dont go out. if your leash breaks, you will need assistance and thats kinda weak. dont get in over your head. test the limits, yea, but dont be foolish mostly agree, a lot of quads are very good in the big stuff, that inside section can be worth it if its a tube what if you got shacked off your mind on that first wave of the set? worth the whoopings. Also, sometimes the first wave of the set hits the bar better, once the first two waves break, there is too much water on the bar and the other waves wont break as hollow yep, you burn up oxygen too quickly too all solid advice, too much coffee increases heart rate and you burn oxygen too quickly
I carb up the nights leading up to a large day. Orzo and Quinoa is great and it holds water for the next day when you need it. Quinoa has an extremely diverse and high amount of amino acids for protein synthesis (less lactic build up). My cardio is good thanks to the Nike running app. Thats is for me. Breathe, stay hydrated, stay energized....SHRED GNAR
Def, a must before a long day of shreddin, having a healthy dad that runs 8 miles a day is helpful for tips on eating well...
My wife is always pushing Quinoa on us. She tauts it as some kind of superfood. I don't care, it tastes like crap. Not for me. That and Beets. they taste like dirt to me, and make me pee purple. The beet greens are good in Garlic and olive oil though I don't do anything special with diet before surfing, other than making sure I've eaten something so I don't get hungry like 10 minutes into my session. And I never ever drink hawaiian punch before paddling out. That stuff is guaranteed to make me have heartburn, and do one of those weird refluxy burp mini throw up in my mouth things....awful while paddling. I lean more towards the Pork Roll Egg and Cheese Sandwich on a Roll before a session. Pork Roll will help you get shacked, it's proven fact.
I agree with: avoiding caffeine, and make sure you have the freshest leash in your quiver. The shadiest situations I have ever been in during real big surf almost all involved the leash breaking at some point. As for the east coast, when its really big, its usually not that long of a period, so it can kind of be a ***** getting out, but with that said, the shallow shelves over here lend for lineups that are right off shore. So, all in all, it's a short paddle, but with a lot of turbulence. And fight your instincts to surf fast. You will miss some of the most rewarding parts of big waves if you are constantly taking a high line and playing it safe. Maybe snag one or two and stay out front, but then calm down, speed check while you are dropping in and try and set up for the pocket. The bigger the barrel, the more makable it is, although it goes against your every instinct. Where we live just has a terrible setup for big waves. My experiences on the west coast, at least the way I attacked it, was that once any beach breaks (aside from blacks) gets in the TRUE 7-8 foot range, it's not worth even surfing it. In OB, if it was 8ft+ there would be ZERO guys in the water from the pier to the jetty. There are just 100 other options, with reefs and points that can handle a maxing swell. Here on the east coast, it is what it is. Maybe one spot is more tolerable, but in most cases, you are going to be surfing a wave that REALLY probably shouldn't even be ridden. The amount of carnage and chaos for a few waves that are usually bad does not end in a fun day. Sure, sometimes you have to push yourself and do it, but I can't remember any truly epic days on a disoraganized beach break that wasn't Blacks. Tried surfing some pretty huge beach break down in Mexico with a friend one time. One of the worst days I have ever had. There were so many other options. The wave looked EPIC from an elevation, but when we got out it was WAY bigger and the barrels that you could fit a greyhound bus in were just moving too fast. One of those near death feeling days with the wifey crying on the beach.
