HH - DOH Waves

Northern Cali is definitely different than SoCal. I was talking about SoCal.

 

Why the fu** would I ever be in Jersey? Maybe we can just meet up at Pipe one year, probably in August right? Then we can both say we surfed pipe.

BTW: Do you ever plan on contributing to this thread? Or did you just drop by to let everyone know you are a Pipeline charger and that there is an imaginary line in the ocean that stops swells from passing central CA? Cause a Jersey pipeline pro like you must have some pretty solid advice. Share with the rest of the class Mr. XXL.

 

To surf 23ft Belmar of course!! And bang hindus on the beach after you impress them with your bench press skills!

 

touche

 

I live in the land of boulder reefs and points so it's pretty risk free on the paddle out and the waves don't generally close out. Anything over 12ft puts me on edge.

 

did u people really not surf today?im surprised theres not 10 new threads on dudes sessions.get out there before it gets dark

 

First thing this morning, actually fun little glassy waves before the long period stuff filled in.

Then mid-afternoon in Maryland, SE long period swell coming in shoulder high, glassy barreling waves at first, then an unforecasted SE sea breeze kicked in and textured up everything

 

I seen pics of Delmarva today it looked purty phukin good,better than today in nj,im hoping that's the swell we're getting Saturday,today was good but it could've been better

 

Not to stir the pot, but check out this pic I took today. See the plate? They drove a long way for a taste of the world class NJ surf.

 

imo, not sure if i agree with this...and i dunno why, maybe yous can help me out with it...once i get out i want the good one. i want the one ima be able to get a sweet line on, the one, that if the peak and curl and off shore agrees with, is gonna ride me to shore. if i make a mistake with that selection and bail early, that's fine, i'll paddle back out and try the next one. but i'm not gonna just paddle for shyte 'cause it's a little bump in front of me that i could get...i get that all the time. i'm waitin' my turn and for my moment and for my line.

y'all in ne take care and enjoy out there tomorrow AM

 

I've only experienced 10' waves once before moving out west. Now it's pretty common for fall and winter here. Things I've learned:

It's f***ing scary the first time you get worked by a wave the size of a small house. You will feel helpless and breathless for much longer than you're comfortable with. "Washing machine" will take on a whole new meaning.
Don't panic.
Use rip currents if available but be smart about it.
Paddle hard. Really hard.
Commit. You're going to get caught up in the lip if you hesitate anyway.
Pick your line before you're even on it.
It's a fast and amazing ride.
Don't panic. Seriously. Don't.
If you're going to wipe out, take a good, deep breath.
Get out when you're too tired. Bigger waves = farther out to sea. Be mindful.

As far as my abilities go, head high is super fun, DOH is a whole different game. Also need to add, duck diving is near useless when it gets in the DOH range. That whitewater goes deep. Just sucks you up and drags you back.

 

That is all so very true.

However, until I collect more recent data, all that comes to mind when I think of Oregon coast are glassy shoulder-high waves and 5'11 collegiate blondes. The gnar is a true story though. Deep to shallow, boom.

 

Depends on the day, man. The last 3 or 4 weeks before the current gnar spell gave us super clean chest-head high peelers all day every day. Perfection. But Winter is no joke here. I tend to spend a lot of days on land with my tail tucked in.