How big have you gone?

luke ditella in nj rivals jesse hines's noel tow-ins in hatteras

http://www.bombinmagazine.com/blog/?p=1632

 

thats a solid double O !

 

Lol

I think that the arguing over East Coast size is hi-larious. I distinctly remember storms coming up the coast in the late 80's/early 90s (and some mid 90s - more in the early) that produced swell that was double OH to around 12', but nothing more. Sure, it makes me sound old - but "you should have been here yesterday". There definitely have been storms after that have produced sizable swell - Noel being the most recent. However, even Noel around here was maxing out at 8 feet.

Now with all of the "beach replenishment" and other ACOE work, some of our breaks close out at head high.

 

Yeah, I think I saw you in Riding Giants. Greg Noll was giving you props

 

I agree with you I am no BIG wave surfer either. Yes...... i have been on DOH + but my ideal wave is perfect chest to head.

 

No doubt...
OC, MD washes out and becomes unridable at about 8 foot, as does delaware. Everyone around here knows that. This shot of Northside IRI during Ernesto looks to be about 8 foot (and looking like its starting to close out there as well) and everybody from OC was up there thzat saturday...why? because OC was a couple feet bigger and unridable. Those claiming 15' - 17' need to learn how to measure a wave properly.

 

hah well so far in school they have never once gotten into the subject of wave measuring. it usually falls under the category of algebra, geometry, ceramics etc... but mayb u went to a special wave school =0.

and for your 17 foot sess i totally believe you. naut. lets see, as a 10 year old you've outdone nearly all of the older experience surfers on here? it was entertaining, but a little insulting at the same time.

ha this site is fun to bluff on though, isn't it bud?

 

I think there are differences between regions and wave height measurements. The east coast usually claims wave height by the face. The west coast and especially Hawaii count the back of the wave, to the top of the lip right before it breaks. Thats why you'll see the pros getting stand up barrels at chopes and describing the wave as 4-6 Ft.

For example, I don't think any east coast break could handle a wave surfed at the Eddie. And those waves are considered to be 20+ ft, with a 40+ face.

 

Dude you got K-coast, Malibus and other places calling the size of the waves down here and im sure they wouldnt have there jobs if they didnt know how to give proper surf reports. and saying OC is unridable at about 8 foot isn't true either. Ive lived here for about half my life and im not gonna say plenty of times, but there has been a lot of good surf and some of it was over 8 for sure. Im just saying, when you have the best ppl in OC calling the surf report DOH+ (in reference to the May 14th day) i dont think they just make that up for the fun of it.

 

wave height measuring is pretty interesting.

Under the DOH mark there seems to be a certain amount of machismo involved. For example, one might say, "it was a solid 4-6", when you have well overhead faces coming in.

BUT, when the waves reach the 15-20ft+ mark, then all of a sudden the ruler comes out, and you are measuring every square centimeter.

As for east coast, a lot of times, with our relatively shorter period swells, we are dealing with a peak, and then a smaller shoulder. Where the peak could be much bigger then the rest of the line. In comparison to the longer period ground swells common on the west coast, which more often have a solid wave face all the way down the line.

 

these are from the malibu's gallery, that looks legit 8' at least in OC...

 

yeah and about to max out...just please don't call it 15'

 

I've never surfed OC.....so i can't say how it holds out. But, As far as surf shops giving out surf reports. They would still have there job even if the reports were way off. Their business is not to give reports...it's to sell products. The report is just an extra. And most shops get their info from other forecast sites like this one. Eastern Lines in Belmar sells alot of products. I've seen their report on here and as well as on their main site stating it's flat no fun. Several times.... When it was waist. So surf shop are gonna make money regardless of their reports.

Not saying K-coast and Malibus don't give accurate reports...just saying some shops are more reliable than other one's with reports. And that they will have their jobs regardless of the report.

 

It's pretty simple actually....

I heard someone mention before in a different thread that head high was 5' -- WRONG

Head high is 6'
DOH = 12'
TOH = 18'

that's just what it is!

I'm on the east coast so I'm measuring the face.

 

I think that's a little bigger than 8.

 

haha yeah true. I didnt mean for it to sound like that, what I meant to write was, I dont think they would have that job ( "that" referring to the surf report) if they didnt know how to give a proper surf report. I know they would still have their job in general, but i mean they prolly wouldnt be in charge of the surf report, if that makes any sense. But yeah i understand some places mess up their reports sometimes as well

 

By measuring its face height right at the peak it is. But most surfers don't describe waves that way if you told them it was solid 8' the would picture something about that size.


This wave below probably had an 8-10 foot face right at the peak if a picture was taken right when the lip ptiched. Would you really call this 8-10?? why not measure the face height out on the shoulder where you would do your first turn?

 

I see your point....but i have always measured from the peak. I do understand tho once the lip pitches it's not 10' anymore. So i do understand where u are coming form.

 

its real subjective for sure. I've always tried to be conservative in calling out size, mostly because i hate exaggerated phone reports only to show up and be disappointed and don't want to be the guy giving the pumped up report. So i try to size up the "usable" part of the wave and report it like that.

 

I still think this is the stupidest debate. The mid atlantic region just is not condusive to produce 15'+ waves. We have a giant continental self with no nearshore trenches that would alow deep water swells to connect with a break. My opinion is still D-OH is about it. You want to call it 20'+ go right ahead. Walk into your local shop and tell an employee that you rode a 20' wave in the mid atlantic and see the look you get.