Alright everybody, I'm throwing this out there because I know everyone has their limit. At what size do you start to get intimidated and really think twice about paddling into a wave or paddling out at all? I just want to get an idea of everyones extremes.
All depends on what the wave is breaking over for me. If it is a 20 foot face and breaking over a perfect reef and the wave is makable each time, that is not scary after taking a few. Take the same wave on sand or rock where it is not perfect and rarely makeable, well that is a whole other ball of wax. I have surfed many big waves but conditions make me more fearful than size.
...what he said plus the whole atmosphere around me, ie... water temp is a repectable factor, color of water, entry and exit points( I am thinking of Honolua Bay). ________ Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
i'll agree w/ mike. in the monmouth/ocean county area, if i could make the paddle, i'll make the drop. one day, years ago, i didn't attempt the paddle. i can't remember which cane it was, but it came right up the coast. easy triple over head. one guy at the pumphouse made it out, took one wave and that was it for him. it was gigantic.
Top to Bottom waves such as those found up here on the East Coast..can get sketchy when it gets big. But waves down in PR or like Joyner said, reef breaks where the drops are semi-mellow and very makable, a lot more feasible.
agreed with chris - not all about size. But with that being said, I will use the word Big around here when we are in the 6-8ft range.
if you have only surfed a few times this year, you must not surf that often to begin with, even if you do have a merrick. my advice to you if you are new at surfing and the bigest waves you caught before were waist to chest high, head high is probably your limit, especially getting into the fall/winter storms when it packs a bigger punch then the summer time mush. anything over head high you probably shouldnt enter the water because most likely dont know the ocean well enough and the conditions that go along with bigger waves...in other words it seperates the boys from the men and the idiots from the experienced
for me i think double overhead would be my limit on the fish. i cant duck dive like i was able to on my short board. but if its clean and on sets then id at least try to get out and try it again.
it is very much true as super fish said, that when we get a big swell, it really separates the crowd out. Generally, the less experienced will be on the shoulder watching most of the time when it is solid.
except for me! i am no where near as good as most of the locals but i am not some kook who doesnt know the deal
Noel was big in my book. And while the 6-8 footers that come here may not be huge, the power that comes with them packs a pretty heavy punch.
For me it is alot like the others have said. If it is clean size is really not the limit, then it would be croud, usually at that size is not a problem, then it come to the paddle out and how on my game I am feeling. When it is slop like a washing machine head high or so (6' +) is usually the limit. Also depends on how my game is feeling. When we get a sizable wave in around here it can be pritty powerfull!! But stick to you confort zone and push the limit some. The more you go out and size up some when you can the more you and your abilities will grow.
If your heart starts pattering too much then it's too big. I'lll remember what a expierenced surfer said too me while waiting for a bus in Cobano to Mal Pais last year when I was starving for any and all information. "Always respect the ocean, and if you get a feeling that today is not the day, then it's not the day for you my friend, pura vida." Never underestimate the power of the ocean and always be aware of your surroundings...With that said a long paddle out will make me think twice if I'm not feeling 100 percent, and if the wave is twice as big as my board...
I've been surfing for about a year a half to two years and hanna on sunday was definately my biggest, and favorite day surfing. Big clean faces and long rides, it was worth fighting a couple of people of a wave to get one that broke at the end of the jetty.
