How did you get back into being a surfer after stopping or quitting for 10+ years ?

Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by Rebel4Liberty76, Mar 13, 2015.

  1. Rebel4Liberty76

    Rebel4Liberty76 Active Member

    29
    Mar 13, 2015
    Hey what's up everyone! This is my first time posting, but it's not my first time surfing at all :cool: I know a lot and spent 100's hours upon hours in the water practicing in my teens in central and south FL. Check out the profile to learn more. Surfing was my life and lived for ANY rideable conditions basically out the crew. To knee high slop that pisses off, to OMFG double overhead and sucking out! I've charged it all! Dawn patrol to NIGHT surfing!

    I had to let go of the board at 19, and lived in Washington DC for close to 20 years. I figured I was too far away to keep up the routine. Very hard and difficult emotionally speaking, caused I realized when I left FL, I missed something inside of me. In fact Rip Curl used this slogan during my days of the 90's : "Only a surfer knows the feeling". Not only was it catchy, but very true All I could do was treasure memories of how it felt, play surfing video games as they came out (nice, but no dice really, except Sunny Garcia's title) watch the old surf films Bunyip Dreaming and PUMP, catch contest on TV to imagine the day of going back to it all. One time I ended up in Ocean City during a swell after 911. I rented a board, and paddled out to the line up. Well it hit me hard that since I've stopped even this long, that I'm struggling hard. I'm getting out of breath much quicker, and endurance has slowed with paddling. I was quite upset. Found a forum like this (maybe it this one lol) and made a post. I'll never forget one poster reply saying you can't expect to just jump into things. It's going to take time, and I realized that a weekend surfer wasn't going to cut it for me. So I never lost my soul. In fact I went to Dell WS where one of the first Flowriders was at, and here's my video.

    [video=youtube;69mMkz1rtxU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69mMkz1rtxU[/video]


    As you can I do know something and I admit that I'm failing hard, however standing on 25 mph of water is something you're not going to shred on the first time, and once it starts to spin out as you can see, good luck trying to keep your balance.

    Part 2 next reply ;)
     
  2. Rebel4Liberty76

    Rebel4Liberty76 Active Member

    29
    Mar 13, 2015
    OK, so now about 5 years down the pike, things change. I end up coming back to Lauderdale to live. First I had a near slip and fall, that water built up in the knee. After a couple of months of waiting for this to finally heal up. I've saved up money for a board and gear. Boards have doubled in price, and I was of the resin/fiberglass fins era. So screws are quite refreshing to see. Wasn't looking to buy a bad ass performance board to start back into the swing of things, just something I can turn and maneuver the line with. I found something for 250 + fins Kinetic Designs 6'3 G .Wilson hand shaped. The first day was some windblown weak slop. I begin to head out, half way out, it's hitting again just like back 01. The ocean is humbling me big time! Getting quickly out of breath, paddling becomes slower and harder trying to get out. I slowly began to get a bad headache, and feel nauseated, so I head in after 40 mins. Took a break, then headed back out again after I eat and rest since I'm living a few blocks away. This time I was able to stay out about 2 hrs, but it was small and weak. Barely ridable, but I stood up a few times frontside dominant. Backside needs to re-orientation to stand up. Caught a few lines, even snapped a close out. Felt really good! I read the winds are about to blow and pick up the wind swell for the next day. I'm ready to hit it as the high tide is coming in. This is nothing new to me. I've surfed 100's of days like I'm about to in windblown chop, so I'm not really thinking anything of it. Looks about waist-chest, and that's all I want. Start to paddle out, and it's not doing too bad getting out. Trying to find the shoulder of an incoming set to take off on. It's shifting, pushing me back, so I have to keep paddling and duck dive under whitewater to stay right at the break point. After a few attempts, I get this sore feeling right under my rib cage. I keep on paddling around, but this is quickly becoming severe. I try to take another wave, which I rode the line. I paddle out, and getting knocked around, over peaks. Even when I started, I never had this kind of pain before and I'm thinking I'm a too dammed skinny ? Out of shape ? WTF is going on ? It's unbearable to stay out, so I head in feeling quite defeated. I read up on this, and it seems quite common, however I can't understand why decreased endurance and energy is happening so fast to me. I read some threads, then fell asleep, when I woke up the whole area hurts. It hurts to even cough now on the right side. I'm chalking this up to not being used to the full body motions and movements in surfing and being knocked around yet, like I was really fine tuned at 17-18. So, what can a person do to ease back into things after 15-20 years or more ? I'd like to hear some pointers and suggestions, especially those who had to stop or quit for years, even decades to go back at a later point. How did you get back into surfing and make the transition from relearning to performance levels ? I'm a DIE HARD dedicated guy, so I'm not giving up at all. Once a surfer, always a surfer and I won't let go. Anyway, I think this could be a good thread for those are in my position of coming back younger mid aged adult 35-40 range.

    All I need to do is win the lottery, buy a lakefront property and have Wavegarden installed LOL:cool:;)

    SURF ON wherever in the world you are!
     

  3. frost

    frost Well-Known Member

    Jul 31, 2014
    Off sport training is critical bike riding jogging targeted workouts etc all help when comes time to hit the beach
     
  4. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Did I miss the Hello tread ?
     
  5. metard

    metard Well-Known Member

    Mar 11, 2014
    tldr

    this is zach619 word count per post style
     
  6. raddadbrad

    raddadbrad Well-Known Member

    Jan 10, 2015
    KOOK RIB!! I love it... Just surf bro. Alot!!
     
  7. Rebel4Liberty76

    Rebel4Liberty76 Active Member

    29
    Mar 13, 2015
    OK! And I heard that as well LOL! Riddle me this please raddadbrad, how come that's something I didn't experience the first time learning as a teen ? Is that because of age ? Inactivity ? I let myself ride over the tops today and rock around. I'm like WTF, my ribs never hurt laying on a board for hrs all during those teen years. Rib or not, the OCEAN does humble. Doesn't matter if you can do 100 push ups, curl free weight in high reps and try put yourself in the best shape to condition yourself to get back into the water....Surfing is NOT for the weak minded. It's probably a tougher sport than most realize! Throw out pre-conditoning. I guess it's the ocean is what does the real conditioning instead.

    Might have to consider that Paddleair :rolleyes:
     
  8. raddadbrad

    raddadbrad Well-Known Member

    Jan 10, 2015
    Your body just needs a few sessions to get back into the swing of things, you'll be fine just make sure your board has enough volume in it. When I got back into surfin after stopping for 7 years I bought a Rusty Dwart 5'10"@35liters and it made surfin super fun again. Keep Chargin!!
     
  9. Rebel4Liberty76

    Rebel4Liberty76 Active Member

    29
    Mar 13, 2015

    Oh yeah, the board has got some thickness and density. I'm not ready for the potato chip slicer obviously. I had eye balls on Al Merricks, but I know better! I guess it's take a bruisin' and get back out in it when tolerable. It really hurts to LOL tonight! Fun!
     
  10. Rebel4Liberty76

    Rebel4Liberty76 Active Member

    29
    Mar 13, 2015
    Day 2 : Rip pain near screaming levels. Just enough to keep composure though. Hurts to cough even slightest or laugh. Reading something funny will be bloody murder...I wonder how long this last for before it begins to subside ?
     
  11. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Stop being a *****. I did not surf for about 10 years; raced sailboats instead.
    Ended up on chemotherapy for 2 years, during which time, my offspring suggested I return to surfing for peace of mind and to pull me out of a death spiral. Bought a board (15 yeas ago), sold the sailboat, and just restarted surfing. Chemo did its job, and I still surf today 15 years post chemo. Was fun vomiting out in the line up.

    So, if you think I have any sympathy on your sore muscles....think again.

    Just get to it and stop whining.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 14, 2015
  12. Valhallalla

    Valhallalla Well-Known Member

    Jan 24, 2013
    Chest-bone?

    Sounds like you might have a chest-bone issue, bro. Talk to Paulie.
     
  13. chicharronne

    chicharronne Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2006
    I started surfing when I moved here in 74. Haven't stopped yet. The only thing keeping me out of the water is the cold and lack of waves.
     
  14. Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2010
    Dear Dude zach,

    Welcome to the line up at swellinfo.com

    It's good to have you back. Have you ever considered starting a hello thread to properly introduce your self? You know- you can tell us your fav color, what kinda cars you like, how much you bench and the rest of you life story. Just saying- it's kinda a right of passage here at swellinfo.com

    Anyways- it sounds like your just getting old dude. Be happy you could get up and ride a few waves so quickly! It's going to take time for your body to adjust. Just take it easy and don't over do it.

    Your pal
    Mr Belmar
     
  15. frost

    frost Well-Known Member

    Jul 31, 2014
    Coco Ho doesn't whine
     
  16. rcarter

    rcarter Well-Known Member

    Jul 26, 2009
    For real. This new guy is a giant douche rocket.
     
  17. natkitchen

    natkitchen Well-Known Member

    766
    Mar 29, 2011
    Ice might help. Sounds like you might wanna have that checked out.

    For just endurance swimming laps helps alot. Cross fit type exercises do too. Keep at it. It will all com come back.
     
  18. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Rocket?? Yeah, that is good, but I did like nozzle better. Kinda grungier, and that "nozz" sound carries a point to the recipient that is very sonorous......just opinion, of course.
     
  19. worsey

    worsey Well-Known Member

    Oct 13, 2013
    if you are what you say you will do backflips when/if you figure just how far equipment has
    progressed since you've been out of the sport.
     
  20. frost

    frost Well-Known Member

    Jul 31, 2014