How did you get back into being a surfer after stopping or quitting for 10+ years ?

If you still have severe pain 3 or 4 days later go see a doc. My ribs hurt for a few days if I lay off surfing for a few weeks but that's the price you pay for getting out of shape. Cowboy up!

 

"Only a surfer knows the feeling" was actually Billabong

 

Sounds like you pulled something, happens easier as you get older. Time heals, don't push yourself too hard until you are feeling 100%. Go out on small days and just paddle around for an hour or so. Take your time, you will get there. I am 42, I take my cousin's 19 year old son surfing with me a lot. I paddle circles around him, but I have a lot more time in the water. Point is, age is just a number, it just takes a little longer the older ya get

 

why am I in the mood for a Mc RIB?????

 

you dumb mfer go to the fkn doctor you dumb kook...jeeebusss wtf is wrong with you your fked up and need medical attention. you didnt stretch good because your a lazy fk and fked something up....holy fk.

 

Ha ha ha ha ha, Blaster's tellin it like it is

 

Hello.

Just go surfin, dude. Sure, we bust up easier now that we're of legal drinkin age, but it's all good.

Re: The chest pain... Chest, rib area seems to bust up in us more experienced chargers. If you feel sh** movin around in there, somethin's broke. Just gotta be still till it reconnects. Took mine a couple months to stop hurtin.

Re: Long layoff... I was out of action for decades. Thought I'd have to think a lot, but not true. Really does seem to be like ridin a bike... "Cool! Didn't know I knew how to do that!"

 

hey you were right about something getting pulled and he didnt want to listen what a mook.

 

This. Sounds like you just got pinned really hard. Stay at it, your chest bone will harden.

 

In the meantime, buy somebody a pizza or perhaps a burger with blue cheese dressing.

I didn't know surfing season had started already

 

They have different regulations down in Florida.

 

tl;dr

 

So you quit at 19, took a20 year break and said now 5 years later you are back on the board. Are you 44? You look like a gawky, awkward18 year old in 19 in that video you posted.

 

THIS^^^

When I left, twin fin boards were just coming out. Now you can make a career outa just being a fin guru.

One thing I've noticed with age... While surfin, I can often make the moves my head wants me too. Just can't always do 'em without hurtin somewheres afterwards.

 

Hey dude. If you actually broke somethin, it can get pretty painful. Broke my chest bone (sternum) last year. If you imagine a toothache level pain, but in your chest bone, that's kinda close. But it's only when you move, at all, a little. Sneezin was the most fun.

Welcome to our Tiki Bar,

Paulie in Galveston

 

Oh is this the part where we pound our chest and say how awesome we are? Never broken a bone so have nto surfed in a cast, but I have surfed waves over 8ft. How about 10ft Hatteras? Maybe 9ft S Turns? As for crazy how about free soloing a 5.10 route at Pilot Mtn? If you don't know free soloing means climbing a route with no ropes. The route was roughly 70-85 ft so a fall would most likely mean death.