How Has Surfing Changed Your Life?

Good job Z

 

Life sucked, got into surfing, now life rarely sucks.

 

Did my best to put what could've been an endless rant into a few words. Like skating (for me), surfing sucks but I love it and need it!

 

Before surfing I was a much more productive citizen... I was much less happy, too....

 

I wouldn't say it changed my life lol,but id say my favorite thing of surfing is the traveling.many exotic locations u would never think of going to unless u surf.

and after surfing,i think why do regular people go on vacation.vacation means surf trip to me.why go to the Bahamas to sit on the beach sippin margaritas watching a flat ocean when u can be in indo paddling out through caves and drinking binting lol

one thing surfing is good for is putting u in a good mood.iv been through some rough times where I went to the beach with a billion problems and I get out the water and that shyt is no longer on my mind,til I get home lol.its a magic eraser for bullshyt.i never leave the beach in a bad mood no matter what

 

What a great line!

 

Absolutely... but for those couple of hours in the water, you get your peace.

 

I definitely agree with the vacation thing but don't knock the bahamas as a legit surf destination.

 

I've thought about this a lot, mostly questioning whether the ridiculous amount of time I put into it, and emotional investment I have in it is worth it.

I don't think I'll ever know the answer...I've been riding waves since I was way too young to think about how anything changes your life, or doesn't change your life, so I lack perspective.

I don't really think surfing does as much for fitness as other things, I've had both of my ears drilled which I blame on decades of surfing in cold water and wind, and have constant rotator cuff inflammation issue which I suspect will eventually become a bigger headache. Friends my age who off-road bike, run, play b-ball, are all in better shape than I am constantly surfing.

I DO think hassling for waves with a bunch of kids half my age or younger, hucking myself over the edge of waves with consequences and maintaining the agility to not get hurt doing it and attitude to not get scared, are good for keeping a healthy, youthful, reasonably irresponsible attitude that I like.

 

I just wish it changed my life sooner. I didn't start until I was 28.

But 24 years later - take today, clients were completely crazy, work totally out-of-hand, stress built to a serious headache - one click away from migraine.

Quickly checked the cams, then checked out. Thought I was going to get skunked on the high tide but found some sweet chest high, zippy lefts. And an absolutely incredible sunset!

All good now.

 

It improved my perspective of life and confidence in myself.

 

It's fair to say, it's more of a hassle than say Puerto Rico or Barbados. No surf shops, no cheap car rentals, many spots unexplored. This is why its such a good place to go get away from the crowds and surf fun warm waves.