In case you were wondering... In 1942, with World War II in full swing, a young military scientist learned of the Allies’ plans to invade northwestern Africa by sea to dislodge the nearby Axis forces. The scientist, Walter Munk, who was in his mid-20s, hastily did some research and found that waves in the region were often too high for the boats carrying troops to reach the beaches safely. Disaster could loom. He mentioned it to his commanding officer, but was brushed off. “ ‘They must have thought about that,’ ” Dr. Munk, now 97, recalled being told. But the young scientist persisted, calling in his mentor at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography to help. They devised a way to calculate the waves the boats could expect to face. Their work helped the boats land in a window of relative calm, and the science of wave prediction took off, becoming part of the planning for the D-Day landings in 1944. Such feats explain why Dr. Munk is sometimes called the “Einstein of the oceans.” Longtime colleagues describe him as a courtly man of boundless curiosity, with an uncanny ability to search out important problems at just the right time. In addition to wartime wave forecasting, Dr. Munk has done pioneering research in ocean sound transmission, deep-sea tides and even climate change, though some of his work in the field has been controversial.
ive always know they waited for clam conditions because that was one of the huge drawbacks of their plans. i never though about them inventing wave for casting.
No. Just .....no. Short period HH choppy as hell with almost every decent-appearing wave a double up runt in front of it, dumping straight onto the bars & the shallow board-wrecking flats. Caught a few, saw a real potential for ripping the fin box out & decided the beer option was infinitely more appealing. Still fun, no better place to be, but surfing....not today.
Good choice! Got a report from the DE side, IRI was waste high, breaking everywhere and packed like Walmart on Black Friday. I'm gonna try it tomorrow morning
Manana s/b decent, good call. Took a shot today, but figured manana is the pick. I just couldn't deal with the insane end-of-summer driving a-wipes that westbound 50 will be manana. Wind didn't wreck IRI...? Surprising.
Yeah, I'm going really early, hopefully I can get in and get out before crowds or traffic set in. My buddy said it was breaking all over the place, so I am sure it wasn't pretty.
That's crazy about the North African thing. If so some research but I'm on my phone for a few weeks. Do you know whether they landed in morocco or in the med? I didn't know the north to south of the med got heavy. I knew Israel went off from time to time and occasionally Sicily got heavy, but the rest I though was Great Lakes style wind stuff?
