How Many Days Have You Surfed In The Last 30 Days?

Hey Trev, are you getting those 30+ mph winds that we've been getting the last couple days?

 

DP I'm eyeing Sunday over there>

 

it is and it isn't. ive like entered zen stoke mode. Border-lining on being jaded, but still humble and thankful for every wave.

I walked away from well overhead barrels the other day, clean and perfect, because it was "too crowded" with 5 guys on it and I knew i'd score them to myself the next day and wanted a sandwich.

. Im constantly tired and cold and hungry even out of the water. My arms no longer move properly. My back hurts blah blah blah.

But im stronger then ever and am stoaked everytime once i boil up some water and put it in the cold wet wetsuite in preperation for another marathon sesh. Yesterday I logged 2 sessions one of which was overhead barrels over a rock reef with three of the boys. Short period small swell, 7 feet at 10 i think. Literally get tubed all the way to the inside, padldle out and theres another waiting for you. I reiterate i won't surf with more than 3 people its too crowded.

3 hours of this. This is now the norm. WTF?!?!? I was in the tube at one point thinking about how it will be nice to get home and play civilization 5 on my computer and get stoned. My priorities are shot.
My wetsuite hasn't been dry in over a month if that gives you an idea of the amount of water time.

 

nope glass high pressure still going strong but lows moving in today.

 

Me and the wife call him "Frothy". Frothiest guy we've ever met lol.

 

currently looking at 4-6 foot glass out my bedroom window. the only question is if i want to drive 15 minutes to where it will be 8-10 and heaving barrels, or make some eggs and walk down the hill with a joint and have a mellow front yard session.

 

obvious solution: hard boil the eggs and utilize vape pen for mobility purposes.

 

Fark, it's only stomach to chest with Gale force offshore wind here. I banged in at work the last couple days thinking I was gonna score. Relegated to chopping wood instead.

Tonight's the night we meet with Surfrider to see if we can replenish that long-gone wave. I would be so stoked to see that wave break again.

 

6 surfs in January, all good ones. (I won't paddle out in January if conditions arent clean and fun looking) Thats actually better than most January's for me.

Two of these were in really solid sized conditions. One chest/shoulder, One headhigh plus.

As i get older, I'm finding it really difficult to find boards that work when its pumping beachbreak and wearing max rubber. The boards i would like to be riding in those conditions dont feel like they have enough float/paddle power, the ones that have enough float/paddle power are sketch dropping in late in ledgy conditions.

 

I been out about ten times since the turn o' the new year. I'm hoping the waves wake up again so I can get out again.

 

Hey Mitchell, dumb question here so forgive my ignorance in advance please.

What would happen if you kept a larger amount of volume, but redistribute some of the foam away from the rails and tail towards the deck?

 

I'm saying it isnt a dumb question, because i'm not really sure how that works. My thought is it makes the board feel more responsive and easier to sink a rail/tail, which matters when you only weigh 155 like me. I feel like i already try to do that when i shape or buy larger boards for winter - into the 6'4" 6'8" range - because i already like boards to have foiled rails. I've ridden mid 6 to 7 foot boards with thick boxy rails, and feel like its hard to knife a bottom turn or set a rail on the way down the face when you need to start getting down the line in a hurry (which is usually the case around here in the winter). Last thing you want dropping into a steep wave in 40 degree water is to feel like the board might slip out if you try and bottom turn hard, or have to draw the turn out onto the flats.

 

Wourde, dude. Wourde. Two por favor

 

I think Mitch is right... In general, rails with low volume are easier to sink. You can moderate that somewhat with hard edges, and how far they're tucked under, and with the shape of any concaves... but for the most part, putting volume along the stringer and away from the rails makes a board more responsive and easier to set the rail.

The tail question is interesting... and I have my theories. Since volume matters most at lower speeds, increasing volume in the tail makes the tail more buoyant and so catching waves becomes easier through increased response to the lifting/pushing force the wave creates. Once up and planing, tail volume matter much less. Keep in mind that volume is a function of not just thickness, but also width and length... increasing either necessarily adds volume. A lot of people think adding length makes wave catching easier because of the added length at the front of the board and the addition to added paddle power. I somewhat disagree. Adding length does not increase paddle power much without the addition of volume. Redistributing volume by adding length does not do much for paddling and wave catching. I think it's more about the added length of board behind you, in the tail, and the increased volume of submerged board, which makes the tail more "corky" and responsive to wave energy and lift.

I also think that flattening the tail rocker may have an effect, too... but most likely not enough to matter.

 

Was out yesterday, 73 degree air temp and 55 water, a ndseveral guys with hoods on. WTH??