How was Delaware 9/19?

OK, I put the crack pipe down, now what?!

I surf the dead of winter, with snow on the ground....and I can say that where I was I spent more time in big, beautiful, clean barrels than any other day this year...so maybe it wasn't the best day of the year for you, but for me it was...

 

This morning there were plenty of semi clean OH sets coming in, which turned into a consistent shoulder to head high wave pattern all afternoon. I am glad that I took off.. thanks Igor!

 

Chincoteague was amping over the weekend. Certainly not the clean perfection of Earl. But I think everyone got obliterated, and decimated but we also rode lots of fast powerful waves We wished we had a jet ski to go out to those outer bars that were going off. They went unridden. Major current Sunday with lots of backwash creating gysers. Crazy. I have a perpetual smile on my face.