How would you describe riding a wave?

This thread sparked my interest earlier this week. With that being said..as i was getting shacked today by a head high+ bomb..i must say not much goes through my mind other than that which is necessary to perform in the most critical moment. When done with the ride..it seems much of it is a blur..happens so fast...mind is so focused in the moment.

It might just be me though..like when i wrestled growing up..almost never remembered the nuances of the match although teammates could re-count minute by minute of their match.

Hope y'all scored today. I did. Sick!! Enjoy incoming..wish i could but got family doins that can't be missed.

 

It doesn't even have to be big perfect day, just riding down the line feeling the water flow beneath you is what gets you hooked. Snaps, floaters, cutbacks, they're all like loops and corkscrews on a rollercoaster... but the barrel, ah the barrel, just looking and seeing a film of water falling around is so mesmerizing, when you're getting barreled, you can't imagine that you're actually inside of it, because it's a view you can ONLY get from inside of it.