I always see people talking about step up boarts for "real waves" when really u don't need much boart.i rarely deal with such "real waves" here on the coast of east so I normally get away with riding what I always ride my 6 deuce. but from over the times where I see people like slater riding a 5'5 at 25' cloudbreak,yes I know we are not slaters,but I assume u can ride the same boart for an 8' eastcoast schwave.no need for a 7'0 gun unless ur planning on going to the shore of norte. I says these things because I just saw a video of some dude in norte Carolina pack a wave I dream I could get here in el jersyo on a 5'7 so
Clean em up and set up a table in either the parking lot of a certain prestigious catholic college near the mansions in Newport, or Point Judith Tues/Wed mid morning- After you get a session in and undergunned beatings/missed waves have taken place- Have free wax on hand, some encouraging words, and I guarantee you will sell your least favorite 5. If it was poly or even a round pin, I'd tell you to keep the Wayne Lynch, but hell. Good luck man. Really sick display and thanks for sharing.
o That dude in NC also said he only made a couple of waves that day because he was on a 5'7 and needed more board... you don't need a full on gun here, but a step up (mine is 6'6) for big days is a good thing to have a few times a year
It don't matter how hard you can rip an 8+ foot wave on a 5'9" or whatever if you can't catch the wave to begin with. That's a huge part of the purpose of step ups/guns with the extra foam and length.
that's an awesome quiver. i love boards btwn 6'6 and 6'10, especially with my 6'4" frame. Helps to have a good friend that can shape and assist guidance when needed. Lot more boards than i'd own, but i respect the person that has good taste. Kudos Toonces
A select few who have extreme timing and skill can ride big waves on small boards by taking off late under the hook. If you are that good quite frankly any board will do. The rest of us mortals generally could use a longer than normal shortboard in bigger waves. Bigger board also helps you cover more ground if you have to chase peaks to get into position.
I've been riding the same 6'4 for the past several swells, no matter what the size or conditions. It's been waist high to a foot or two overhead, and all I've been doing is changing fins. Which has been really fun, actually. Now I'm sort of cycling back to the quad set I started out with, but went through at least a half dozen combinations with varying degrees of success... and failure. But it's been fun... I highly recommend it.
Years ago I had a 7'6 Brewer pintail designed for Sunset Beach that was a great board for NJ hurricane surf. I bought it during the epic run of hurricane surf we had in the mid 90s. That board was perfect for chasing hurricane waves. Paddled great, could duck dive walls of water and would catch anything. Ended up selling it after we had two consecutive dismal hurricane seasons around 2000. Should never have let go of that one. Similar to this one with translucent Red glass on fins.
I just buckled my old fish I had been riding for the last 12 years or so... Went and picked up a 6'1" Firewire Machado Midas. Twin fin set up on it right now... 3 solid days of surf and I am sitting here wondering how I ever lived without it. This board flies...
That lynch never clicked for me. I got it as a backup to the rawson, but they ride completely differently. Not a bad idea to go to the spot that shall not be named to sell some of those boards....really good idea actually.
I snapped this photo after getting out of the water yesterday. There are many ways to shred; just gotta grab the gear and get out there. Its been a fun Fall!
I've been riding the same board an switching fins too. nothing crazy. just switching between blackstix and alphas. So cool to see how the same board responds to the different setups.
Cool... That's one good thing about consistent swell, you don't feel like you're gonna miss something and blow the only session you'll have in two weeks because you went with the wrong fins. I've been playing with different combinations of AM-2's, Stretch's, RTI's, and FG-3's. Here are the 2 biggest takeaway for me: Changing out the rears on a quad... or the trailer on a thruster... makes a bigger difference than changing out the fronts/rail fins. The type of foil a fin set has makes a bigger difference than a square cm or two in area... which is the opposite of what I thought prior to playing around. My guess is there's a point where changes in fin area dominate over foil, but 3 out of the 4 fin sets I was playing with were very close in area.
Its windy today...I'll play. Its a lot of boards, but i ride them all, and for now don't dislike any of them, and really like a lot of them. Sides: Longboards - Neptune Noserider, Ashton HPLB Top: Shortboards, Eggs, Step-up L to R: Ashton, Neptune, Ashton, Neptune, Ashton....6'0" up to 7'0" Middle: Alts, Simmons, Round-Nose Fish quads L to R: Neptune, Chemistry, Neptune, Neptune, Neptune, and Stretch....4'11 - 5'10" Bottom: 6'2" Ashton Battail, 6'2" MR I just picked up used and like based on a couple sessions. The Neptunes i shaped.