That suggests NJ surfers are using the wrong boards for those waves. Too short = late takeoffs, right?? Early entry allows you all the time you need, so, use more volume (which is a vomit measure meant to market boards to morons).
This debate could go a number of different ways. And it really comes down to personal preference at the end of the day. Waves also play a role. But Barry isn't totally wrong. I like more volume when it's big. Every one has a step up. But i put more volumein mine than most do for the exact reason Barry mentioned. I'd rather get into it early. I actually think my next custom will be a mid length built for bigger throwing waves. Although i do have boards that fit that bill. The big thing is the paddle out. People still want to duck dive. I personally used to ride my LB a lot in big stuff so i'm used to not relying on duck dives. But like i said. Personal preference.
