I was flipping through the channels the other morning and caught bob ross the painter for a second,and he said the illest shyt that I cant remember. something like "if your the best at (surfing/whatever) why do u still do it.where is the fun.if theres nothing new to learn then theres no point in doing it.he didn't say it like that,u know hes soft spoken and his words flow better than mine I got to look it up,it was some good shyt he said tho
Word Peajay. The lineup is one of the last few places where merit matters. And cep, Bob Ross was the man.
I took this yoga class once and the guy says " don't over do it. Are you trying to win at yoga?" I burst out laughing because you bet your @ss I was.
I I can appreciate your perspective. And everyone else's. Maybe I'm the ass. I just thought from where I sat he was trying to make a scene. I realize he was trying to stick a maneuver but it was kind of obnoxious. Mean mugging every other dude. Look, I'm not good. I can hold my own. I can lay it back, find the eye, and ride with my version of style. I progress for me but rarely project it outwardly. I have personal goals and want to make the most of my sessions. This kid just threw me off. Who knows, maybe I was him...15 years ago.
As a youngin, I think surfing should be about both enjoying what you're doing, while also trying to improve your surfing. Maybe not every time you go out. Maybe every once in a while you go out there just to ride the waves in a comfortable way that utilizes the whole wave. Maybe other times you go out with the intention of nailing that really critical maneuver. It's all about what the waves are warranting, and how ya feel like surfing that day. On the EC, it's hard sometimes. Today it was stomach high...maybe...but light to moderate onshore and all chopped up. We had waves, but man if it left a lot to be desired. I was kinda disappointed that I couldn't get excited for it, but I decided that I'd just wait for the swell coming this weekend. However, if/when I get back to consistently good surf...well I'll be interested to see how that progression thing goes.