I Get Goose Bumps Everytime...

While I do think there is a "right" board for everyone, depending upon conditions, I also believe that the vast majority of recreational surfers (or more accurately, non-pro caliber surfers) are not being held back by their boards. For the most part, it takes a very talented individual to maximize the potential of any well-made board, and I'd argue 99.9% of us are not surfing at that level. If you think you are, imagine handing your board over to any pro, and see if they can do things you can't on your board.

But everyone is different, and has a different approach, style, ability, and preference on how to surf any given wave. The "right" board definitely helps you get there.

 

The waves these people are getting on these "wrong" shapes are also nearly perfect waves by my standards. I would probably be happy riding a hunk of foam regardless of shape, size, fin placements etc. if the waves in my neck of the woods were this predictable looking. I think having the right board for the right conditions mostly applies when the conditions are slop or have no push or maybe not lined up or a predictable take off zone. If its a predictable point or reef with some juice, pretty much anything will get the j done