I surfed OH+ surf everyday for the last 6 days!

That translates into 10-15 foot surf usually. Today, it was about 5-7 ft while I was suiting up at the OB pier. I paddled out and then the 20 wave sets that were easily twice that size started filling in. That sh** was easily DOH... 12-15 foot faces... Just dumping at the higher tide... I surfed the pier for about 45 minutes then got out and went down to the cliffs because the set waves were just mostly bombing closeouts... With all the shark talk in the area, I was sick of navigating through 13-20 wave sets. The cliffs were much much better. The beaches couldnt handle the size really Everywhere was going off today... All weekend too... Its a shame I was surfing with Great White sharks for 2 days this week.... they spotted that fu**er on the cliffs this morning, about 1 mile south of me... This swell is macking though... all weekend.

At mid-day today, the buoys were running 7ft at 22 seconds from the sw.... that means it gonna be fu**ing big.... real big. Real inconsistent, but one of the better South Swells we have seen in a couple of years.... to get DOH+ out of a south swell is tough... but man, today was pretty epic.

 

Here is a photo. It IS REAL! This was taken yesterday at Swamis before the swell filled in. Twice in the past 7 days, the spots that I have been surfing were cleared for the white shark sighting.... Anyway, this was yesterday.... sketchy! Not photoshopped. This is from the CBS news 8 website..... A local shark expert did agree that this is the tail of a 12 foot whitey! Yum Yum.



Look at homeboy in the bottom left... He is looking right at it... 3 seconds after this photo was taken, I am sure his wetsuit was filled with doo-doo.