Intro to SI

What's going on ladies/gents,

I've been on here a for a good bit now and finally getting around to a intro. I grew up in a Navy fam moving around beaches all me life... Finally picked up surfing when in jr. high living in J'ville. First session was at the Poles. Moved down to Deland, Fl to go to school and ended up spending much time at NSB and Ponce Inlet.

I got away from surfing for 20+ years except for a handful of times mainly due to my taking to competitive bike racing. I ate, slept, trained, raced, partied (repeat in various orders and omissions of whooping it up.) for 25 years.... whew! I am getting up there in numbers. I'll be 50 next spring. I beat my self up over the years acquiring various injuries from skateboarding, snowboarding, and mainly bike incidents/accidents. Have had 7 surgeries to fix various deals. All surgeries minus the last one got me back out doing the things I loved without holding me back one bit. 2 neck surgeries took me out for a couple seasons but an artificial disk at yale in '09 got be racing bikes again full tilt. Eventually a badly cased snowboard jump in '02 worked on my lower back and pelvis for over 10 years before finally catching up with me... a fusion later (wasn't a candidate for artificial disks in the states or overseas) and I had to give up my passion of bike racing.

I do still ride and my 6 year old and 3 year old girls race bikes to! Trying to find something to fill that gap created by my loss of competitive racing I decided to get my first custom board made locally to specs of my dream whipper snapper shortboard I had back in the day. It was an awesome experience working with local shaper, Steve Divita, owner/shaper of Head High Surfboards to create my first of 3 boards I have gotten from him over the last year. I also picked up a demo 6'2" disc and another custom made 5'10" retro from HeadHigh.

Now I watch the waves and swells daily and feed off attempting to step up my game and ability in surfing. I would say I'm at the lower intermediate level. My boss at work who also was an die hard cyclist told me a few months back it was great to see the gleam in my eye when talking about surfing and catching swells coming through. I was in the dumps for quite some time after having to stop training and racing bikes. Surfing has helped revitalized my overall being. I am happily married and have two awesome girls that I hope take to surfing also. Syd my oldest is boogie boarding and catching a few waves and my 3.5 year old caught her first wave this summer at croatan, with me holding on with her no doubt.

Well.....Hope I didn't get to long here on the intro,,, catch you all in the threads,

 

Thanks for the kind and questionable but laughable replies!

Ride on,,,,,,

Hanna,,,, quick question here....

[video=youtube;zLHtxRzu6KQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLHtxRzu6KQ[/video]

 

thx me brotha!!,,,

 

I can appreciate your assessment. For a moment I thought were eluding to the fact that maybe I had some narcissistic skidmarks in me effen underwear?!lol.... I def thought my intro was a bit lengthy... My bad. Just my attempt to give a rundown on how I got here. I have been an ultra active person forever. When I had to back off, it was a big deal for me. I was just sharing. I do have an ego but I don't walk into a room and start telling people I raced at the elite level and stuff along those lines..

Hopefully no harsh feelings Hanna. I know were joking as was I. As far as the Training Day buzz, I love that damn movie and that scene. A friend of mine and I would re enact that sometimes around folks that did not know what the fuk was going on. Although we would say "have you ever...." vs "yeah, I had mine....". Acting all crazed out like the last dude in the scene.

Damn! I just can't get away from typing to much...

 

I hear Ya!~.... Thought I would try to clarify w/o coming across as defensive. That ends with my last post. I won't feel the need to justify anything from here on out... I do know better than thinking I am going to roll in here and have everyone welcome me with open arms. I love the "Normal" reference.... really.

Have a good one everyone,

 

Ha ha,,,,,Lo Fukin L to Ya'll Kock huggin 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5+ posting (poser) m'effers..... I was giving a slight to being cordial at first but I don't give a flying **** about you *****es..... haha. And Hey Dudle Effen Dandy... I think your probably a big fukin ***** when it comes down to it. I been around the block a few time *****. I seen a good bit... I toughed out more situations than most. I guarantee that. Yes, I am a bad mutha fuka. Come see me anytime. Internet fukin warriors.