It was pretty good but lots of drift and you had to jump on the bigget waves that came through in order to get anything out of them. The medium sized waves that looked the best had nothing or not much to ride and would just fizzle out. Unfortunately if you didn't drift into the right spot the bigger ones were surprisingly hard to beat. Super steep south angle swell and everything that goes along with that. The wind is west now and it looks fun on the cams right before dark.
i just got home from a REALLY fun session in oc, nj...checked it on a whim despite the forcast & it paid off!! no one out, super fun peaks...a nice end to an absolutely $#!tty day! now it's time for beer
yeah, i was going to drive to work today instead of take the train and surf after, but i checked the site this morning and it was red so i didn't bother. terrible call that was. last time i went for an afternoon session the guy was green and it ended up being onshore and ****ing terrible (last week). i can't f***ing win.
Late in the day yesterday, after the tide dropped for a couple hours, it got really fun at my local, with only 3 or 4 other guys out, pretty much spread out too. Sets were head high, but mostly solid chest to shoulder high rights. That's the beauty of being able to check it frequently, and being able to get on it at a moment's notice. That, and a little local knowledge can go a long way.
4 to 730, angle was weird but I drifted and surfed a few peaks in between the jetty's. I think I had more fun on the lefts coming in of the rocks got a few cover ups too but had to come through the curtain on most.
Found a secret spot and surfed with 3 homies from 4 to 7:15 yesterday. Sooooooo fun! Long rights...lots of paddling!
I got out at around 6;00 after having a whole bunch of work to do. No one was out, and I mean no one. There were some nice little 1 footers too haha.
