Its too f%&^$ big

Discussion in 'Mid Atlantic' started by Gnarly, Aug 17, 2009.

  1. Huck

    Huck Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Can someone educate me a bit? Why are long period swells more likely to close out and be unrideable than short period swells? I can see why the size of the wave in relation to the depth and shape of the sandbar would make a wave a wave unrideable, but it's not clear to me why the period (which i understand to mean the period of time between swells) would cause a different result. Someone help out a rookie wave scientist here.
  2. Gnarly

    Gnarly Active Member

    Nov 16, 2008
    Hopefully saturdays not blown out

  3. wallysurfr

    wallysurfr Well-Known Member

    Oct 23, 2007
  4. Swellinfo

    Swellinfo Administrator

    May 19, 2006
    huck, i responded to your other thread with the same question. the link I provided pretty there much summed it up.

    This is how it works, the longer the wave period the longer the wave length. When these waves move toward the shore, they feel the ocean bottom and refract to become more parallel to the coast. Since the long period swells, have bigger wave lengths, essentially this creates one very long wall. That is why on long period swells, beach breaks tend to close out, while the point breaks handle these waves much better where you can very long waves that peel on and on down the line.

    Its hard to explain without pictures, but that is the best I can do first thing in the morning!
  5. cjswee

    cjswee Well-Known Member

    Aug 5, 2008

    Looks like it should be steadily building all day and the OBX should be in that range....
  6. matilda

    matilda Member

    Aug 21, 2009
    You've got a little something stuck between your teeth. You better get that out before it turns into a cavity.
  7. fulltilt720

    fulltilt720 Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2008
    I know surfline is the enemy..but for the purposes of this question... they put together a good image describing the refraction tendencies of different periods of swell in their hurricane bill video forecast.
  8. mOtion732

    mOtion732 Well-Known Member

    Sep 18, 2008
    going for a paddle later on in the afternoon. hopefully it's big and messy with a ****load of paddling and i get loose for sunday.
  9. Swellinfo

    Swellinfo Administrator

    May 19, 2006
    ya, good thing we have some time to get loose in the friday/saturday surf... god knows i need it... hasn't been too much as of late.
  10. darippah

    darippah Well-Known Member

    May 27, 2008
    Miss this problem
  11. DaveyB

    DaveyB Well-Known Member

    Sep 24, 2008
    me too haha
  12. McLovin

    McLovin Well-Known Member

    Jun 27, 2010
    F yeah, Hurricane Bill!