Joe DiMaggio of Surfing

surfing is like everything else...you either do it because you have a passion for it, or because you have some friends that do it/and or you think it'll make you kewl

 

no worries man, stay stoked and surf as much as you can. reading/hearing the perspective of those far more dedicated than me inspires me to surf as much as I can without compromising my other priorities. besides, I'm not trading surf time for money at all... been contemplating trying to move to san diego in a few years which in addition to the obvious upgrade in wave quantity and quality would likely have much better long term career potential for me. why am I not all over that right now? because of all the other factors I listed, mostly friends and family.

I started to go down a similar path with skiing when I moved to CO... never to the point of full on ski bumming in a mountain town, but being in a situation where I could consistently ski 3 days a week all winter at any number of world class resorts, and found that I sacrificed way too many other things that were important to me (surfing being one of those)in the process, and very quickly got so spoiled that a 6-8 inch powder day in CO didn't make me any happier than skiing icy groomers at killington with all my friends used to.

 

on that note, thanks for the fun lunch break longboard session I just had! I read your comment yesterday, a little research of your post history suggested you're on the same coast as me, and my initial thought was "my office is barely two miles from the beach, why the fvck don't I get more sessions in on my lunchbreak????" couple other things had to fall into place of course, and they did, but I think that thought pretty directly inspired me to paddle out for a fun 45 min solo session just now. not the best waves I've ever surfed, but gorgeous weather and beats the sh!t out of whatever all my coworkers were doing...

 

^^^ Stoked!

 

What if they were all taking turns banging the gorgeous brunette and you missed your turn???

 

lol touché
although... no one round these parts even comes close to matching that description...

 

Seven months. I surf alot, but last year July did not travel, even upcoast for dribble. Seven glorious months have gone by since that dreaded month of hot, flat , boring, did I mention flat and boring? Today was the tits!

 

no worries man. im lucky to work down in rodanthe on the outer banks so there's almost a wave everyday.

 

These days, I sometimes go a month without surfing. I was on an insane streak back in 2007-2011. I might have surfed every month for 4 years and at least a handful of times a month at the very least.

I had a real iron man streak going. I keep forgetting that I broke an ankle in December of 2007 though, so I probably did go close to 2 months because of that. I broke a wrist early in 2007 and might have missed 2 weeks. It wasn't that bad and I was even able to work through that.