Jonas, Boom or Bust?

Someone should locate him and apologise.

 

Seriously. Then he could come back and we could give him swim advise.

 

Honestly, I think it's because a lot of people just talk a big game, and get scared when there's some legit size and power. I know about 90% of the guys I surf with with any regularity start getting intimidated when it's solid overhead conditions. Some will come right out and admit it, others just make excuses. I know it been in the last couple of years that I got genuinely comfortable in well-overhead to DOH conditions. Now I think that's when it starts to get real fun, but for years I got freaked out and would back off after I would start paddling for a wave and watch that fvcker just jack up underneath me and look like a free fall death pit.

 

Man, I cased the outer banks this whole swell and it never really was doing it (disorganized, wrong winds etc) until Monday and Tues (smaller but real fun). I did slip over to VB Sunday evening....You surfed Croatan? It was surprisingly decent and solid...long lefts but not really top to bottom. Were you on your Coil? There were only 5-6 guys out. Could not believe how un-crowded it was. I only really surf VB in the Winter b/c the crowds are stupid in the summer. Anyway, sounds like you surfed a bunch during this swell. I wish the offshores would have dialed in a little better/longer!!!

 

I was visiting family in breezy and I'm glad I didn't have my suit or my board because the only way it could look scarier was if there were landing craft full of Marines firing 50 cal rounds at me on the beach. That would have been a buoy day for me. Try and shoulder hop a few big ones and try not to get killed.

Also - the video is sick. Is it me or does that dude look exactly like Steven Matz from the Mets?

 

Yea man I was out at Croatan rocks on my coil from 2-5. It was me and one other guy until about 430. It was super fun for that spot on the right wave. Current and paddle out was a *****.

 

Same man. It's all about having the right boards and just putting your head down and fvckin going for it.

 

im comfortable in about 20 feet if its not too hollow. after thats where i start to get the jitters

 

There was a good quote from a surfer mag article on committing.
"Err too far on the side of caution and you'll live, but you'll live with a question that has no answer."
Which is followed up by a guy diving head first with arms and legs froggy style after missing a teahupoo drop.

 

Yea that was dave rastavich in Tahiti I think I remember correctly

 

I get scared alot, not of size but of rocks, jetties, getting stuck inside, those dumb fvcking drainage pipes in jersey.

I like big scary surf, I dont like struggling to breath.

I got my leash wrapped around the st augustine pier once back in the day it was chest high and thought i was going to drown. Got ****ed up by barnacles.

Just last april i got stuck in the vortex of monohans dock and was boucing off the rocks, got so gassed but made it back out only to take a wave in.

surfing is awesome

 

Yea... You were probably a bit south off rocks...saw a couple of guys catching some good ones as I walked to rocks to paddle out at 4. Surfed til dark. Sounds like we just missed a sesh.

 

Damn. Well I'm out anywhere and anytime there's waves when I can so hit me up next time. What do you ride?

 

Surfing is the greatest thing ever.

 

I was on a 6' 4" that day.

 

That's too funny that the three of us were all out there at the same time. I was down by the house with the flag pole you see on the surfline pendleton cam -with the irish flag. I saw some guys walking down towards the jetty; i was too lazy to walk all the way up the beach that afternoon. Jay is that where you were as well - there were two guys right by me and then a crowd of three or four about halfway to the jetty.

 

.

 

And cold water just adds a whole other obstacle...anyone else find it 10x harder to hold breath in a hold down in dec-March???

Came up gasping the other day on 5-6 ft day where I just started swimming in a direction and remember thinking to myself, "I hope this way is up"...one of the 1st times I've ever gotten nervous under there

And that's what I'm saying about this swell...I've surfed waves at least twice as big as that hold down and not been held under like that, with that kind of power...made me think, damn, I gotta get traveling

 

Yes, I don't think I have surfed the jetty in 20 years. Paddle out next to rocks and surfed outside of them. There were some big lefts sweeping around the inlet. We stayed there til dark.