Jonas, Boom or Bust?

Yea I had one like that. It wasn't even the biggest wave in the set. I was just in the worst spot possible in the impact zone and got held under for longer than usual. Cold water makes your heart beat faster to keep your body warm. I guess you expend oxygen quicker. Plus sitting in dark, very cold water during a snowstorm just is against everything humans do haha

 

i love that feeling. Mid february, close to zero air temps, water temp in the upper thirties, that eerie grey glow to the sky all day (unless its piercing frigid blue). Water as thick as concrete, ice forming on your scruffy facial hair. Bobbing around there like an ice cube in a muddy martini, feeling the onset of some strange winter sickness. Asking yourself why the **** am i out here? Looking around and knowing that humans shouldn't be allowed to be alive out here, but due to modern ingenuity and the passion of riding around on a piece of foam your doing it.

 

Right on... Ever get a strange look from a seal? I swear that's exactly what they're thinking too!

 

Do not ever forget--you are one of that horde.
So is everyone else on this site, myself included.
And it is only going to get much worse, unfortunately.

 

big ass seals in the harbor of westport washington. One punked me out once, i yelled at it to go away and it stared me down and dived under the water only to come up two feet in front of me and bark his fishy seal breath in my face.

things dont mess around

 

Technique to get screwed at cape cod
1: grow your mustache thick
2: wear a shiny black wetsuit with a hood
3: mix some anchovy paste in your wax
4: train to produce a nice "honk honk!"
5: wear some bodyborad flippers
You might get the wave but surely get a lot of friendzzz

 

Probably the best thing about the west coast is the marine life. If you surf mission beach at first light, you're almost guaranteed to see dolphins. La Jolla, always seal's playing on the inside. I've seen giant whales breach 20 yards from me.
Simply amazing out here!

 

Out there they just ignore you. Around here they give you an attitude. Kinda like the surfers...

 

LOL!! You're on a serious roll today, brother!

 

LOLZ YES

Yes they are no joke in Westport, but not nearly as formidable as the toothless localz

They got em out west too

SI break meetup impromptu

where'd you surf 20fotters tre?