Just Surfing

Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by antoine, Dec 23, 2016.

  1. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    I haven't been on here in a while but I thought I might share some surf related stories. I'm hoping to keep this positive while I share my story and I hope to hear your story in a similar way.

    In July I went to Tamarindo Costa Rica on a family surf vacation and scored waves all 7 days while we were in Tamarindo , We also visited the Arenal mountain volcano area and while we visited there the first 3 days of our vacation I was really focused on surfing, even as we hiked and zip lined through the area I imagined the mountains as waves and the shape of the land as the water . I only tell you this to explain the fact that I had never focused on or been in touch with what I hoped to accomplish while surfing. I have never experienced such a pull from the ocean with such clarity. I hope many of you have had that feeling but for me it was a first.

    Upon arrival at Tamarindo ( the Diria resort ) I looked at at the ocean near river mouth and my son and I left my wife and daughter behind , rented a few boards and surfed for 3 hours.

    In those 3 hours we had met so many people and found the right guy to take us on some surf excursions the next few days and once again I was dialed in and one with the ocean.

    Fast forward to last week,
    Last week I spent 6 days in Nicaragua ( solo trip first time there) and it was unbelievable and fun. Some days were just to big or heavy at a few spots so it was easy enough to go to another spot and really have a great time.

    the 4th day I was there i went back to one of the bigger spots and found it with manageable conditions so I paddled out and after about an hour of some of the longest rights which is back side for me I noticed the surf was growing. I decided to stay out and watch some of the better surfers just ride some amazing barrels that i'm sure I would not survive.

    During this trip I came to realize that nothing had changed except my gratitude for surfing, sliding on waves and all the people who encouraged me to stick with it and taught me a few things, maybe about surfing and maybe about life.

    The last 6 months or so I have really grown to understand what surfing is to me and the comfort it brings me when i'm going to surf and the memories i keep when i'm away from the ocean.


    Anyone can try to surf and many people call themselves surfers but very few of us really appreciate the gift we have and the people we meet and the relationships we form.


    Well as long winded as it was that's one surfing story-
    Happy Hollidays to you and if any of you are near cocoa beach this weekend join the fun for surfing Santas, it's for a great cause!
     
  2. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    Wow! I so enjoyed reading your story and am thankful you took the time to share it.
     

  3. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Solid man. Every day and Every wave is a gift. You got it figured out dude. Thanks for sharing.
     
  4. SloFlo

    SloFlo Well-Known Member

    Oct 6, 2016
    Wonderful write-up! The part that I highlighted causes me to ask if you wish to share any photographs. It is one of the things that I use my photographs for, indeed. Many times, when away from the surf, I will retrieve some photographs that I have yet to edit, and then spend much time doing so, which I also find extremely relaxing to do; sometimes I may share a few upon occasion. I am glad that you and your family had such a nice time! :)
     
  5. Notaseal

    Notaseal Well-Known Member

    Apr 18, 2015
  6. kidde rocque

    kidde rocque Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2016
    Lol, dude you need to relocate...if you're not here already.
     
  7. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Didn't get to read your post yet, i will. But just wanted to say it's nice to see you around. Was literally just thinking to myself this morning "hey, where has antoine been"
     
  8. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Great post dude, glad you're getting such great waves!
     
  9. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Thanks , I will post pics soon. Surfing saints was pretty cool. I met a wounded vet with a service dog, they have been together for 2 years and they are learning to surf! Just amazing!
     
  10. kidde rocque

    kidde rocque Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2016
    Antoine, what was your experience with the Diria resort? Specifically, walking proximity to quality surf, traveling surfers in that particular area (is the "Tamagringo" label accurate), and the overall Diria accommodations.
     
  11. nopantsLance

    nopantsLance Well-Known Member

    Aug 15, 2016
    Great story / nice connection Antoine
     
  12. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    I was there in March. Of the places I traveled to for surfing, it was the last desirable. We had a nice condo for 10 days, not the Diria, but we did go there for an evening drink. Tamarindo is FULL of gringos. You go out of a dawn surf session and there are 6 surf schools bringing novices out. It is, as is now PR, pretty much a ruined spot based on tourism. And there is the question of the river--it is where you surf in Tamarindo, right at the river mouth. In the last year, they have had 5 or 6 (at least) crocodile attacks on humans; we are part of their menu. The CR government has tried with some success to suppress the croc attack news from getting out of the country. One of the recent attacks was EXACTLY where I was surfing, along with a few others. And the crocks DO LEAVE THE RIVER into the ocean, no matter what you are told otherwise--they are, after all, "salt water crocs" species.
    Now, having said that, CR has OTHER locations where the surf, I am told, is mo' betta. Look first there to see if it may be better.
    Tamarindo does have "adequate" restaurants, but nothing to rave about. We went to a lot of them, ate well, good enough for a surfing vacation.
    Will I go back?? Nope, but then again, I am done with surfing vacations. My next major trip will probably be Provence in France. I need to do something different.

    just opinion.
     
  13. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    It's okay Barry, Like I said I was hoping it would be a positive tread.

    The Diria has a fun wave that comes in at high tide well away from the surf lessons. Everyday day the wave broke over and around that rock probe;y 6 to 8 feet and on the other side of river mouth was a fun break that was consistently chest high at most tides. If you've never been to Tamarindo and are looking for an easy surf spot I suggest the diria , they have 6 restaurants and you can keep your board in their locker room right by the beach and it's such a bonus not to have to carry your board back to the room. also go see Ricky at Banana surf , this guy is awesome and will arrange the short boat ride to witches rock for some wonderful surf. You don't have to carry cash to the restaurants for the diria as your room key is all you need and you can walk almost everywhere. we are all different and while it would be nice to be bored with such places as pr and cr I am thankful to not have the luxury of travel although I have had more opportunity lately
     
  14. OldSoul

    OldSoul Well-Known Member

    347
    Nov 7, 2011
    lol never heard "tamagringo" before... that is funny. Ive been to Tamarindo twice- March 2014 and this past June, its a good spot for a 1st time trip. There are plenty of places to eat, and a few markets to pick up food if you have the option to cook where you are staying. River mouth is fun for a quick sesh before you venture to other spots like grande, avanellas, negra or ollies, witches up north.
     
  15. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
  16. Agabinet

    Agabinet Well-Known Member

    309
    May 3, 2012
    Where did you go in Nica?
     
  17. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    I went to Maderas, close to lake managua i met a guy in south melbourne beach who said he owned a surf place in Nica so i went and he was the owner,,, made for an easy trip.
     
  18. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    I was just sitting here thinking that I have been pretty fortunate to have surfed thanksgiving and christmas day for the last 3 years straight! anybody have a longer streak going with those 2 holidays?
     
  19. harrydog

    harrydog Member

    20
    Jun 22, 2016
    Tamarindo is for goons scared to go on real surf trips. Its like going to PR but worse.
     
  20. Valhallalla

    Valhallalla Well-Known Member

    Jan 24, 2013
    I don't have a longer streak but I believe I'm right there with you at three years. I'm not certain on the x-mas day surfs but my buddy and I always meet up for a T-day DP sesh regradless of how poor the waves may be. And I'm sure you're surfing in better conditions than I am. Yesterday definitely cuz all we had here was some 6 second power choppe with wind.

    As to your original post, great story! I really like this line:

    "Anyone can try to surf and many people call themselves surfers but very few of us really appreciate the gift we have and the people we meet and the relationships we form."

    I treasure every moment I'm out in the brine. And I have met so many great folks in persuit of this activity including many from this here surf predictin' website phorumme. It truly is a gift.