Last of the MoKnee-gans

Picturesque! What a wave man.

 

I have a copy of that book, and built my first board from it alone back in '79/'80, using a Sears Craftsman planer. Used to get all my materials from Heritage Surf Shop when Dan Sr. ran it.

We owe a lot to GG... people still use his techniques... even his language... to describe mat surfing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igN3FqwC29E

Forty years later?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jyaxsL599g

 

It's insane what this guy has been doing on surf mats...ever heard of the 4th Gear Flyer? I don't quite understand the physics of how a half-inflated mat can go at such speed, it's just unreal. And to think that this guy started out bodyboarding those old plywood paipos, then started kneeriding them...then graduated into board and fin dynamics (Velo and the high-aspect ration fins). He's still totally ahead of his time.

 

... and he nearly failed out of high school, and lasted one semester in college. Now that's an indictment of our Educational System!

 

he is also super rich and a bit reclusive, he didnt need school and was able to let his fortune take care of his needs so he could focus on his genius

glad his fam is rich so I can enjoy surfing more with his developments

 

Threads like this are what convinced me to re-register on this forum...

It's awesome to share and view videos, pictures and have discussion on all things ocean related without the constant arguments, sales threads, opinionated viewpoints and "trolling" (for you technonerds).

That mark thomson video made me happy to benefit from something as simple as wave energy.

 

Thanks bro! After watching those, I want to order one and go out and recapture that pure speed glide he alludes to. I remember spending all day as a kid on surfmats in choppy surf and coming home all rashed out. Now they have a thing called rashguards. I can't wait to give the surfmat a tryout in some decent lined up waves. Lots of subtle technique in the Mark Thomas vid. Very cool stuff!

 

Had a fun kneeboard sesh out front (AI Pier) today.

 

Right on... Just goes to show that it's not about what you have, but what you do with it. Plenty of Charmed Life kids do nothing to contribute. He was given a golden opportunity... and a golden ticket... to pursue his interests and free his mind.

We toss the word "core" around a lot. He's all that and more, and has probably never even thought the word in his head.