On a breaking wave it's easy to end the ride. i can cut out in front of, over the top of, or just bust out the back of most faces. The problem I'm having is after whatever trick that i'v completed across the closing break. i finish with my fist in the air and riding whitewater. Without a leash the only way i know to exit is a 180. if i stay on the board whitewash pushes me back, i can do a 180 solo board launch, and swim to connect before the next wave. i don't think that will work in the larger surf. so just thinking about a snappy standing to 180 to duck-dive whitewash exit. Yes ?
I find a 720 works best. Just make sure to shoot your board directly at the beach 11/16th's the way through the 720. Your board will magically appear back in the lineup juxtaposed so you can calmly swim out to it and immediately catch the next set once you reach it. It's all math:
Instead of doing all the spins and worrying about this issue, just wear a leash. Am I missing something here? I don't do airs (yet!) so please let me know if leashes get in the way, or are simply no longer cool to wear.
Erockstien knows what he is talking about ya'll. One time I did it wrong though and was only 9/16th's through the rotation when I shot my board out, and it opened a wormhole that came out directly in front of Shredmachine bangin a hindu on a 23 foot Jersey slab! Talk about scary!!!
my leash-less comfort level is now in the 3-4 foot range, my favorite size wave is 6-7. anything bigger and i'll wear the King Kong cord. turning turtle is probably the best way. i can't because of my own fear rocks and other face breaking things underwater.
wear a leash. some of the greates pleasures I have is flipping over some punk ass's potato chip and giving it a little nudge towards shore when they are 4 feet away.
well good on you for not wearing a leash, those things are for pu55ies. Your problem is probably your breakfast selection, maybe even your attire or board selection. Yeah man, go eat some wheaties, buy like 6 or 8 new pairs of trunks, and all of Dane Reynolds pro model boards from CI. Report back.
