make no sense. sounds like the guy who wrote is just pissed cause he is out of shape and can't complete.
Very thought provoking article. I have always felt ( and this has been verified through first hand experience and observation ) that surfing is a meritocracy. There are exceptions such as organized events that encourage people with disabilities to surf. No one is going to push you into a wave unless your Mom or Dad is teaching you to surf, or you pay a surf camp to teach you. I give waves and hoot people on to spread stoke and elevate the vibe, but if it is a very crowded day and an aggro crew, I try to out paddle and out maneuver myself into a set wave or peak. Patience can wear thin sometimes. It comes with the territory. No one pointed a gun at me and said "Paddle out, kook!" That is most everyone's mindset that surfs good waves at popular peaks. It takes desire and ability to catch good waves. No real shortcuts will get you in and out of the tube. We can all hold hands and sing Kumbaya the next time a set comes through, and some touristo will take off, eat it and ruin a perfectly good wave. Aloha bro!
