Leaving good waves for the promise of none

So about a week or so ago as I was leaving a solid run of month and a half long double overhead clean surf in the PNW. I was gazing at aquatic perfection from the window of my plane back to a landlocked location in New England for the holidays. I was feeling pretty bad for myself and the waves I would be missing so I jotted down this quick narrative.

For those of you who don't feel like reading a whole buncha wordstuff, feel free to skip to the bottom and start burning and trolling this thread. For anyone with a little time on their hands, feel free to check out my rambling below, youve probably experienced something similar and it may ease the pain if you can't surf this holiday:


On Leaving good waves for the promise of none:


Every surfer knows the feeling, that escalator drop in the pit of the stomach. Not the kind you get when your hurtling yourself over the cliff of a well overhead bomb into potential glory or oblivion, but the kind from knowing your blowing it.

The winds have shifted offshore, the swell is on the rise, the tide is perfect, the sand is where it needs to be, and you, at this very instant, are watching the daylight hours slip away because of "work" or a "dentist appointment" or a "wedding" or "heading home for the holidays".

Your buddies are all texting you telling you how its going off, and how your blowing it. Your bowls are clenched in a knot waiting for the inevitable drop of photos and videos, and well rehearsed stories about the "day of the year" which you just missed. Your loved ones are looking at you skeptically over the dinner table and wondering why your sweating nervous bullets, constantly on your phone, and noticeably distraught.

"It's nothing " you assure them through clenched teeth. "Just missed some good waves, no big deal".

It doesn't help that the small town airport security employee is informing you that your bag reeks like marijuana, the cops will be called, and your wetsuit is officially being declared as a piss-laden "biohazard".

Every surfer has probably had one those day.

But there is good News: everything is going to be ok.

Sure you missed it. Sure you’ll mildly regret it for the rest of your life while defending your ironclad and insurmountable "obligations"".

But as long as climate change continues to produce storms of increasing magnitude, and the land meets the sea there will be more waves.

Will you always be there to ride them? No. Will there continue to be days like this: Yes.

Every surfer gets their turn on the great roulette wheel of scoring an epic surf day. Some get it more than others and to differing magnitudes but the ebb and flow of epic sessions mirrors the tide, it's in constant flux.

Every-day of onshore shwag you drove 3 hours for makes that spontaneous lunch break barrel even better. Every 20-minute lull makes the set seem that much bigger on the horizon. Every redeye flight makes an afternoon cruise down the coast seem paradisiacal.

The key is keeping it all in perspective: every dog gets his day.

Next time after an epic session, when one of your friends rolls up late to the jetty post sunset, out of breath with boards in tow and a mournfully desperate look in their eye, just inform them that "you didn't miss too much man, it will probably be even better soon".

 

I got to surf sunday in Rhodey which was ok but still not enough lol least I got a few miniramps and concrete bowls to choose from

 

yea dude, despite being the hardest thing possible on your body (for me it always kills my back and knees) skating is one of the most beneficial supplemental activities for surfing. Helps you lose your fear, pick your lines, and practice your airs/maneuvers in a constant environment. Still, its always gonna be a substitute cause you can't get barreled.

And Rocque me friend, check out the forcast for where I was at. Its been at least 2 to 3 days a week 2x overhead with light east winds since I left, and the North or South wind days just mean ya gotta poke around for perfection. If you decide to drive south to pursue some in your states immature younger brother state let me know and ill give ya the road map.

 

hahaha i think his new name is something that the mods wouldn't approve of. Ill inform him tho that his spot in the virtual lineup is back and that the Swar is over for at least the Holidays.

 

Ok just talked to stank, says the name of his account is "AustinsBleedingAnus". Just quoting here.

Also he requests to keep that username.