Leaving good waves for the promise of none

Cool positive vibe TR.

At least you have something to blame it on, life commitments and such. To me it's worse when you check one spot and then get greedy and go to another and find out it's not as good, then you go back and the other spot has died.

So if you have a bird in the hand, might as well whack it while you can.

 

Never leave waves for waves, you know this!

 

Yeah, but ya know you've done it too!

I'm a just dumb wookie after all.

 

I am guilty yes. Live and learn right?

 

If you ditch the woman then you can do both!

 

Yup, the learn part being the key!

 

Awesome post. It's all about putting things into perspective. Surfing is an amazing thing but it's not all that there is to life. Family, friends, adventures and many other aspects of life remain.

I'm at a point in my surfing career where I put most to everything aside to get water time in. Too often I'm critical or dissatisfied with my performance. I just want to shredz 24/7 but I need to take a step back and just enjoy where I am, what I can do and have more fun.

 

R u Emass?

 

If he was Emass he would have posted at 3 am after shredding the pave for two hours.

And it would be much, much longer.

 

trevor, sorry i missed your call the other day. Believe or not I got a 5 hr session in that mess.

And always remember, the waves were always better on the other side.

Be here now.

 

Funny thing, still, after 55 years of surfing, when a swell goes by and I do not get at least one session in, I feel I missed something that will never happen again. No two swells are alike.
Having said that, the ocean always provides more. Teaches us patience, I suppose....

 

Good stuff

 

Call me crazy but I think the distress of missing a good swell is worse if you're getting good surf all the time. When I was in Hawaii I surfed almost every day and got tons of great waves. So when something kept me out of the water I felt it very acutely. Being on the east coast a year and a half now, going weeks without waves is normal. So if I miss a swell and have to wait another week, it feels like business as usual if that makes sense.

Anyway good post.