Lefts in Puerto Rico

There is a reason it is called Wilderness......

 

Never got Wilderness big... always just stayed in Rincon and surfed Tres or Marias. Wilderness is only worth the drive if Rincon is small. Today's a good example... chest high in Rincon... overhead at Wildo.

 

Good few days to be on the island

 

Good trick... best of both worlds.

 

Only problem with that is the quality of the waves at Rincon are far superior to those on the North Shore. Nothing beats an early morning solitude surf at Marias or Dogmans.
Until the crowds get there.......

 

Some of my fondest surf memories are getting Maria’s and Domes all to myself before sunrise until the first few people show up after sunrise. Chest - head+ and glassy perfection and not one person in sight. Rare experiences.

 

For me, during the early 60s, when I lived there, we had the place all to ourselves for freaking weeks. Then some idiot from New Jersey, for example, would show with his camera. We broke it and sent him back to San Juan. Asshole he was.
The ABC World contest in 1968 ruined the place.