Was surfing a beach in N.E this afternoon when I rode my first unbroken wave down the line! If you guys can remember that feeling it was like a drug! I was so fugging stoked I didn't no what to do! There were hundreds of quohogs on the beach from the storm and at least 200 seagulls over me at any given time! It was so trippy but in a good way! I share this because no one I know understands, but you guys and girls do. I was nervous going out because I ditched the 5-4 panagucci suite,lol. I wore a 4-3 flash bomb plus and I swear for 2 hrs I was warm. The water was 42 degrees! Got what I paid for I guess! Smiled all the way home. Peace!
Pretty sad but ya! I used to drink a lot! I'm 48 yo and never surfed sober! Like I said life changing! My only lessons were YouTube!
Hell yeah! My longest ride, where I actually felt worn out was in California. And +100 on the flashbomb, I love my 4/3!!
Totally remember my first bottom turn and open faced wave. I will never forget it and the impact it's had on my life. Rodanthe OBX must of been 12 or 13 years ago. Camping with my family I had a 6'2" T&C board that was all frkn busted my dad and i patched with a load of epoxy from the hardware store. It was a perfect 5 foot day and paddling out was a *****. green open face.. man that changed my life forever... all life decisions were made with surf always considered after that.
Nice dawg! Keep at it! Love the stoke! I'll never forget mine either. Gets engraved in the brain. Your one of us now
Good on ya dog! I remember mine too and what I recall the most was the smooooooothnessss... It really is an "aha!" moment of surfing...
Nice, Red... I wish I could remember my first down-the-line wave. But if I could guess, it probably wasn't on a surfboard. Probably a canvas mat.
