limitations

When it's big, jetties... pilings from old groins... piers... all that stuff totally sketches me out, for some reason. Like a phobia... an unreasonable fear. All that current... sh!t sneaking up on you as you drift down the beach... trying to take a short cut paddling out on the short side of the rocks, hoping you time it right... creeps me the F out. Sometimes I grit my teeth and go for it... sometimes I take the extra precaution and paddle WIDE. I figure I might waste some time and energy... but I'll never do something stupid and pay the price. Broken leashes and stuff like that... that's gonna happen. So you gotta calculate your risks. I've had to swim for a mile, but I've never been thrashed onto the rocks.

 

Once or twice a year when its big and sweeping down the beach, the little jetties in Long Beach, LI sketch me out, I'm constantly looking over my shoulder and thinking about em. I don't know if it's cause they're sneaky small or only being there once in awhile. Probably a combo of both.

I've been swept under casino pier from the north side, halfway in and crawled out dragging my dinged up board. Dragged across rocks in deal on a big NE swell, by that p house if you know what I'm talkin about. And ive got a bucket of broken leashes from when i used let go of my board all the time like a jerk. I save em to remind myself how important it is to stay in shape, and never let go of my board.

The little jetties in long island are my humbler, theyre just sketchy when there's a lot of current. There's a pipe in Long Branch that can go **** itself too.

 

Was in 99? October as leaves were all turning. I hear ya about winter, had a session last week on the lakes and was alone for the last hour, fully coated in ice, dodging the odd floe. Was a bit sketch, but it was headhigh and offshore.. That only happens a handful of times a year on Lake O., so risk vs reward.. No way I wasn't staying in the water till sundown.

 

haha yea especially since it was me and one other guy for like the first 45 minutes

 

Ha... my limitations would have been pulling in the parking lot and noticing the snow and ice on the beach!