I just came back from some of the best surf sessions of my life in Rincon Puerto Rico. Definitely the biggest I've surfed to date. I can still remember the sheer fear, happiness and pure stoke I felt on that day as 10 to 15 faces rolled through. I was on the verge of tears 24 hrs after as the adrenaline and endorphins continued to coarse throughout my veins and find there way into my soul. Well, some time has passed, and I haven't really surfed since but I can't stop thinking about those days. It's like obsessing over an ex when you know you shouldn't because she's moved on. Well, I'm making my way to the mountains and here I am still thinking about these days. I keep talking about it even with non surfers who look at me like I'm some headcase challenged from PTSD telling Nam stories. I know I need to move on, I know days that good are rare, but as I head to the interior of the states and the mountains there is a sadness in knowing I am leaving the ocean for a month or two, sad that I won't be out there, enjoying the beauty the ocean has to offer us. I guess I wanted to just say, I love to surf, and I'm gonna miss it, but I'll be back. I'll miss las holas del mar...siempre en mi corazon, ciao
The oceans not going anywhere for a few thousand years so I don't think two months warrants a complete meltdown. Now if you were heading inland for good I would say it's time to stress. I feel a little un-balanced when I travel more than 2 hours away from the coast. I thought about HI when I moved to Va. for a long while so you're not going thru anything that anyone else hasn't been thru thats used to surfing quality waves. My bigger wave boards are in the garage so I don't have to look at them on a regular basis. That helps.
Breathe some mountain air and get a few pow runs in and that PR trip will be far in the rear view mirror
maybe some of the PR folk miss snowboarding or skiing like you miss surfing..and if you had it everyday you wouldn't have such wonderful feelings!
