Ohh trust, me it wasn't all hugs and high fives. But the most flack I have ever caught about being from Maryland out there was at a Bar. In the water, things were always kosher. Like I said, you surf the OB pier most days, for a couple years, you just start to blend in. Everyone knows I'm going to make the set waves, people give you your space, and within the first few months I have some close friends who were sponsored local pros, so that ALWAYS helps your lineup cred a little. When you get out on a good day and two of the most respected surfers out there start saying what's up to you and asking how things are, then over time, you just slide into local acceptance. You can always tell when you have started to get accepted also, because when you are done riding a wave and pop over the back and you notice all the "locals" had been craning their necks and watching your every move and turn, then when they see you look back towards them, they all quickly turn back around trying to pretend they were just stretching their necks out, not staring at you. Sunset Cliffs was a bit harder, but again, I usually went to Peskys every time it was 4-6 feet out, N or S Garbage when its 8-10 and anything much bigger I would go down to Subs, which can hold an enormous amount of swell, so I had it to s science, and again, after a couple winters of showing up and seeing the same guys out when it's good, you just blend in and no one remembers where you are from, they just know you are always there.... And I am telling you, there was only one local pro that was a "d-bag" local. I mean, talking sh** to kids and girls in the middle of the summer, for "kooking it" and being in his way. Constantly going around huffing and puffing. When you get to close to him, all you hear are complaints about the cold water because he just got back from Indo on a photo trip.... blah blah blah... Like I said, I really only know one REALLY good surfer that acts like that, and shame on him for it. Cause it's an embarrassment to have a dude like that repping your area. Talking sh** to people for not knowing the deal, when in all realities, you could boost a 360 grab over her and all her friends to avoid them, but instead you give them the toolish speech about how they ruined your wave.... Every other cat I ever see out with a big mouth are the "locals" that are born and raised there, yet you only see them like once a month out surfing. They will show up at Avalanche on a saturday morning and start *****ing and yelling and telling everyone to get off his beach.... And by the water, he SUCKS at surfing.. He is riding a freaking 7 foot pintail on a chest high day with his as$ sticking out like a man-hooker in west hollywood.... Talkin smack to unsuspecting weekend warriors.... The good guys are usually the quiet ones... always.
A local is simply someone that never left, some are an angry species because they never figured out how to live without mom and dad/connections in said locale, and some that are just happy to be where they are. I can't say I'm really a local anywhere, been on the road for sometime now trying out different spots, and finally settling in southern new england... would I ever consider myself a local here? eh if I feel like I'm stuck here I might get angry and throw the idea around. The locals everywhere i have been have burned me, paddled into my line, thrown seaweed, made circus noises as well as hooted and shared stories of big swells to grace their homeland. both are greeted with a smile and laughter, because i can look back be happy of where I have been and where I am in the moment. so to the op, who the **** really cares which ones are locals. respect everyone and anyone who paddles out, take care of the spot you surf that day.
Exactly! There is a difference between a regular in a lineup and a local. They are usually always respectful of each other and get there share of waves. The regular and local will also probably know each other from seeing each other surfing the same break. The regular will never be a local thought. A local is someone who has lived in that town for a while. It's not someone who just surfs that break. I've seen regulars who can surf better than locals and I've seen a lot of locals who rip because they get more water time. Locals time in the area isn't just surfing. It's a life around the ocean in general (fishing, bodysurfing, diving, spear-fishing, etc.) I'm not trying to get into a debate, I'm just saying that you aren't a local in the town you surf unless you live there. Just like I"m not a local at the b-ball court in your hometown.
this is how i'm gonna do ya unless you DEMAND otherwise…so young or old anarchists alike beware the old fat bald surfer with tricks up his sleeve…with experience comes multiple confrontations thus wisdom acrued and ideas in play...
I agree with basically everyone here since were all saying the same thing. Out of the water, just don't litter or be obnoxious. Stuff like that. And in the water just follow etiquette and let others have waves if there paddling for them. In my experience after backing off on a few waves for a local they will appreciate the gesture and return the favor. This guy said it the best. But it brings up a question that ties into who's local or not. Summer pros, are they locals? I personally don't think so. Where I live local isn't about where you live, its about time in the water. Even if a summer pro surfs every day in the summer, he's only surfing a fraction of the quantity and quality of waves compared to someone out there all winter long. Curious as to what you guys think about that.
No summer pros (people who own a summer house and don't live there year round) are not locals. Only people who live in the town year round are local. People who surf the same spot on a regular basis, are regulars but still not locals. Regulars and locals usually get along but that person who surfs there on a regular basis will never be a local.
All this local stuff is a grey area. I personally don't buy into the notion that unless you have lived in a place your whole life, or have generations of family there to be a local.... When you live somewhere, on a somewhat permanent basis, you are a local. For instance, I am not from South Carolina. I moved here by way of California almost 2 years ago. I purchased a home here and I have no plans on living elsewhere in my immediate future. Therefore, to me, I am a local. Maybe someone who was born on the Island feels differently, but I don't. I am a part of the community. My taxes and my money on an annual basis help fund this town and this island. So to me, I am w Hilton Head Island local. Even though Ocean City was my home break my entire pre-adult life, when I go there, I don't feel like a local anymore. It still feels like home, but I would treat the guys who live there now, regardless of how long as the locals. My dad is a local there. He lives there. Owns a home there. His permanent residence is there.... Same with San Diego, if I visit there next week, I would probably recognize and be recognized by 75% of the lineups still, but I would feel like just a visitor, so I would treat anyone there, regardless of if I recognize them as the locals now. But, I must say, "Watermen" is a broad term that demands a very high regard, and I would say 95% of ALL LOCALS, no matter if you are in Hawaii, CA, Jersey, SC or Florida are not "Watermen". That's the thing. TO me, as a "Waterman" you have to have clocked TONS of time doing the following: Swimming, Free Diving, Lifeguarding, Snorkeling, Scuba, Sailing, Surfing, Bodysurfing, paddling (distance) and generally able to live off the sea with little to no effort. Being a watermen means having a complete understanding of your surroundings, locally in the sea. Knowing at any given week of the year, what the ocean's conditions should be, what kind of sea life are prevalent or migrating... all that. I just think that not many of us, me included are anywhere near "waterman" status. None of us probably have the time to do so... But just because we shape our own boards, bodysurf sometimes and surf when there are waves hardly classify us as waterman.
I agree with most of what you said. You don't have to be born and raised in the town. You just have to establish roots and be there of a bit. That is a local. Just because you walk or drive through other's people's town who are locals and then paddle out next to a jetty doesn't mean your a local. You are still a visitor as you say. It doesn't mean you can't surf or don't follow etiquette. Locals also tend to have more respect for their town and beaches than outsiders. Many "regulars" clean up after themselves but most just walk on the sand and leave. Some actually leave a mess. I never used the term waterman but most locals that I know in my area have a love for the ocean. It just doesn't stop with surfing. We have more time because we are local and have quicker access to the ocean. We still work but can also pop out for an early morning, lunch or evening fish, surf, etc. That's why we choose to live here. Kids obviously don't have a choice. It's up to their parents. Older people have a choice. Some go after the higher paying jobs and live inland. Some sacrifice, have a smaller house and live near the ocean. I'm not saying one is better than the other. It's whatever makes you happy. You are a local in the town you live in year round. Just because I may go and hunt in north west new jersey or snowboard up there, doesn't mean I'm a local and I doubt the people up there would consider me a local.
Yeah, no doubt. Agreed on all counts. I always try and get involved in different ocean activities each year. Time is at an all time premium for me these days, so it's tough, but I have added snorkeling, fishing, bodysurfing, free swimming, some minor sailing, crabbing, gigging and skimboarding to my arsenal of ocean related activities I do. I have not gotten big into diving, but one of these years, I will dabble it.... I am just on the tip of the iceberg, until I have mastered all these skillsets, I wouldn't consider myself a waterman at all... that's ocean royalty..... But I think we all try and find ways into the water and thats all that matters. Thats why we all pay so much money to live where we live after all.
