So I've been hearing this, but no idea as to why. So, why exactly does longer period swell (say >14s) tend to closeout beach breaks? Thanks!
Tue S winds 15 to 20 kt...increasing to 20 to 25 kt in the afternoon. Gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Showers likely. A chance of tstms in the afternoon. Vsby 1 to 3 nm. Tue Night S winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Frequent showers with a chance of tstms. Vsby 1 to 3 nm. Weds. am West winds oh yeah Baby!!! Shag me!!
Longer period wave energy is deeper, so it starts to "feel the bottom" much further from the shoreline, giving it more time to refract and bend in more parallel to the beach/bars before it breaks. Shorter period wind swell energy is concentrated nearer to the water's surface, so by the time it hits shallow enough water to break, it's still coming in at an angle. It's similar to why East swells close out at most beaches here... because it comes straight in, hitting the shoreline straight ahead. South swells are better, because they approach the shoreline at an angle.
+1 for LBcrew...great explanation. The only time I really get excited about a hurricane swell around here is when its one of those ones that comes up the coast really hugging shore, usually after they already made landfall at some point. Those often create a nice 11-12 sec S swell. Not to say I dont surf longer period swell in NJ, but I'm real selective about where I go, and dont get crazy excited about them, because even at a good spot its sure to be mixed with closeouts. NJ coast in general is not well suited for groundswell.
