You got that right. Taking the LB out on a big day is something else man. You really have to experience it if you haven't. I prefer my SB on big days usually but sometimes I take out the LB and it's a blast. No problems getting that thing to turn on a dime with some juice behind it, give it a try!
It's all good if it's surfing The point made about the wrong equipment, see that every day with goobs struggling with shortboards. Unless....it's raddamoron: born to shred on his rippy sticky!
I *totally* agree with the original post- I'm way more relaxed after riding a longboard- after all it is more of a classic and relaxing style.... I love lingboarding as much as I do shortboarding. I have gone thru the phases over the years- strictly shortboarding or longboarding what ever. But now I would much rather check the waves and ride the board best suited for the waves. This morning I went out at a popular presidential suite spot - it was small but clean and the lefts where fun... But there where tons of guys on shortboards! All struggling to get good rides and even catch waves. I saw one guy ditch his shortboard and go in to grab a wavestorm! Costco surf shop! And brad- (you rad baby, you rad) I gotta disagree with you on this one. You know I have kinda given you the benefit of a doubt since we surf the same area- but idk man... There is a lot more to surfing then riding a shortboard and pumping down the line. I have surfed almost every day this summer- and still have time for work and family. You just gotta be in the water at 530 to 6- and most all days I was longboarding, and had a great time- the waters warm- the wind is offshore- little peeling waves coming thru (of which I would have no fun riding a shortboard- even if the 'technology' changed and they added more volume and less rocker) and - oh yea- no one is out! Your really missing out on a whole other experience in surfing. Anyways- you gotta have a longboard in the quiver- and actually learn to ride it well- even in bigger surf! #saltlife
+1… Its a lot more than whipping your hair to the side, saying, brah, and pumping down the line. I always call those dudes kooks when I paddle out on a big day until they either suck azzz or drop in the deepest on the biggest wave of the day no farks given… mad props Theres something about surfin DP in jersey in the summer on a nice day… abosolutly the best feeling esp with a lil bluntsindoodle
Does 7'6" count as a long board? I picked one up to have in the quiver and I haven't used it since last winter. I definitely prefer my shortboard, but the times I have taken the 7'6" out, it was fun. I do get slightly jealous sometimes watching the peeps on the long boards picking off waves before I even decide to start paddling. LOL Had some entertainment yesterday watching the tourons nose dive thier long boards into 2 feet of water. Actually surprised no one got hurt
Longboards, from a competition definition, is anything 9ft or greater. Even an 8'10" doesn't "qualify" for competition sakes, but it is a "mini-long". But for me, a longboard is anything with a longboard shape and is 8ft or greater. A 7'6" is midsize, and I would say anything smaller than a 7ft is a shortboard. But those definitions have evolved over time. Those that do not have fun on a longboard simply do not know how to ride them. A good surfer rides all size boards, appropriate to the wave and location. Same is to be said for shortbaords--to not have fun on one is because one does not know how to ride it. Just opinion.
1rst board had was a 6'8" sgl. fin which is the longest board I've ever owned. I've got nothing agaisn't LBs but I have to admit in my younger days I thought of them as old man or kook boards. I know guys that tear it up on a LBs just never appealed to me. I can hang with the LBs at my break but I have been to other breaks when a LB definitely gave you an advantage in catching more waves. I do hate hearing the "soul" BS about surfing a LB. If you got style/soul or not it shows on any board you ride. Surf whatever you want just stay the f*ck out of my way.
Considering the rest of my quiver are 5'10", 5'10" and 6'1", a 7'6" is a long board to me! Here I am shreddin the gnar on my long board. HA HA HA
O. I went up to a 6'1" and thought I was getting crazy. Have to admit it makes the paddling easier. Ain't getting any younger so you may see me on a true LB one day.
Longboards have a time and place...Waikiki, Malibu, mellow CA reef breaks, small knee to waist high summer days on East Coast. But when the waves are head high + and pumping and there are guys on longboards, just because they don't have the skills to paddle or surf anything shorter, they are a menace. A nice head high wave is a complete waste on a longboard, especially since 90% of the guys here on longboards just drop in and go straight down the line, kamakazi style. They are a crutch. Ride them when you are old, but a 20-40 year old guy taking a LB out on a good day should be embarrassed.
I kinda understand this comment. I prefer shortboarding when the conditions call for it. However, to each his own. As long as there is respect, and the understanding that the longboard will far outpaddle and be an advantage wave count-wise, everything should be OK. And remember kids, style is key. Ugly shortboarding on a head high day is just as bad as ugly point and shoot longboarding on a head high day.
Flip side to this is I've seen older dudes charging in chest to head super short period dumpy beachbreak, and owning. I got no problemme with that.
surfed the local Jetty break last night, glassy powerful 3-5' peaks...couple of LB'ers paddled out to the chagrin of the locals...then proceeded to *kill it*, with amazing style. I think LB's ridden correctly have a aesthetic that is very soulful, which is sorely missing with most shortboarders that believe that pure aggression on every single wave is the only legitimate way to surf (you know who you are). Truly great surfers like Curren, Slater et al recognize this. Unfortunately, there are too many aggro whack jobs out in the water that are too closed-minded to recognize. Bottom line: if you're competent in the line-up and practice good water etiquette, I don't give a flying fvck through a rolling donut what you're riding. Bring what you ride and ride what you bring, and do it with class and style.