We got some good swell yesterday and today. Like REAL good. This pretty much sums up the last two days. My wrist is stil in a brace so I had to use the beater board in 2x OH. Got shackalacked a good few times and had a fair share of beatings as well. Lung full o water, hood ripped off, over the falls on a 10 foot face into 4 feet of water. The rip was unreal, paddling was constant, and it was the best two sessions I've had in a while. Now my wrist hurts like a b1tchacho. Saint Patrick really provided. It was GOOOOOD
I had a little Irish luck yesterday. Was surfing a wave that breaks in front of some rocks. My leash broke when I dove over he back of the wave. Swam like mr phelps and just barely got to my board before a set sent it into them rocks.
