Magic Carpet Rides

Got Oceanside good on Saturday then a nice lil N swell popped up and surfed out front of my place Sunday.

What a weekend!

 

se nc didn't pick up any of that swell you guys have been getting for the last several weeks

been really crappy here

 

EMass-- Scored sunset sesh Saturday at the usual spot. Waist-Chest+, clean, very fun, somewhat mellow. It was more conducive to working on "in wave" technique as opposed to that mentioned outstanding long period swell two weeks ago that was more about surviving much larger drops and getting out before closure (which obviously is a technique/skill set in itself).

 

Yo's, how aboots leaving at least one surf go undocumented on the internet?

This past weekend was so not worthy of internet documentation.

Why trunk 59 F water? Why? This ain't Santa Cruz in 1955. Put your wetsuit on white boy.

Those white people, man...... "They" got problems. "Those" people, I'll tell you (you see how I linked that back to the "Why don't Negroes surf" thread......f'ing brilliant, man. So now somebody's got to complain aboot white people being referred to as "them" and "those")

It was big on Saturday? What 8-10' ? Even on the less exposed north and/or south shores? Wow, b!tchen, man.

Tell that earth-loving "wahine" (man, you are just like Dog the Bounty Hunter with the Hawaii-speak) to go do some yoga and eat some kale.

Yo, Spicoli, (wink, wink) she touch it?

Ahh, Spicoli, I'm such a dink, dude. Someone's got to be.

 

Got out Saturday and Sunday... fish and log, respectively. Gotta say, though, that the wave of the day on Sunday went to my daughter... a clean shoulder high (on her) peeler that went for about 60 yards with her slotted in the pocket for about half the ride. Made my day...

 

nada. my beach had bull dozers and dredging pipes all weekend....

 

Yeah, emass is a tool with the bra talk. It makes me laugh.

 

Oh man, I love when you ignore me. It turns me on.

But c'mon, we're all dying to know........

Did you mate with that wahine?

 

I'm gonna take a leap of faith here and assume that was probably one of the best Father's Day gifts you've received, congrats!

 

You're so right, brother... That, and she painted and gave me this:



Not bad for a 12-year-old, huh?

 

Totally had blast Saturday, and then blew off Fathers Day Sunday and went again... Yeah it was super small, but long boards are still fun on knee highs in 81 water, 88 air, and friends to cut up with. I got to try a Bettys McTavish board and I gotta say it gave a really fast ride!

There was a longboarder walking up and down his board which was great to watch. And I pushed a couple of teen girls into their first wave which was exciting to see

Small waves are great for honing some skills, and it's just so dam wonderful to be out there in the ocean, in the warmth, with friends !

 

Sad to see one of my favorite spots which are now being guarded by life. My final session was bitter sweet at one I call minny snapper (I found it after the snapper rocks event), perfect tide, kinda rainy shiddy day (last week) but got a few in, threw the ol hood on and ignored the lifeguard whistles until I had to go to work.

Surfable real estate just went down.. skate weather increasing to look on the bright side, along girls in bikinis, shin high LB waves, and quarry jumping.

Here is a little cover up I got on D-Day at a better known spot, to remember the good days.

 

Awesomeness amigo.

 

ya think if i titled the thread WHY CAUCASIANS SURF BETTER it might have stayed open??

 

Quarry jumping? That sounds like a rush. Way too old now, but we used to jump off the bridges during summer flat spells. Some of us dove. One of us died of a broken neck on an oyster bar off a bridge in Jupiter. One of us is still paralyzed from diving off the crow's nest at Pumphouse. The biggest bridge here is the Blue Heron, it's about 70 feet and if you land wrong you get broken ribs. Did some quarry jumping in Tennessee, probably 90 feet. Totally rad. Highest dive I've done is only off a 10 meter platform. Good rule of thumb is to snorkel or free dive the spot you are going to take the plunge, just to see if there is any old cars or steel rods to avoid. Prolonged flat spells will make you do strange things.