makings ones own artificial reef .

That's that sh** right there. You are calling the surfer's of San Diego "kooks" when there are probably about 5-6000 of them that would surf circles around you. You know nothing of what you speak...

 

And I spent 1/3 of my entire life there. Not a couple years "brah"...

 

OK, Roger that. I get it. Yeah, I reckon at my age and my level of grumpiness, San Diago (founded by the Germans), is not at the top of my list either. I'd rather go to Indo, Kauai, Liberia, etc. The North Shore isn't crowded and obnoxious? Or is it just that good the annoyance factor gets thrown out the window?

 

Plenty of spots on north shore with less crowds. Kauai has practically no crowds at all. Just saying there are better spots. If you like smog, good waves, huge crowds, phony people, hipsters, San Diego is for you. I am old and cranky. When I travel, I like to experience natural surroundings with a limited number of people. Zach thinks surfing is about seeing if someone on the beach sees you and thinks wow that is a great surfer. He talks about his surfing abilities. I never talked about my abilities. I would just like to see these abilities on video if he's so high and might on himself.

Zach reminds me a lot of myself when I was younger. You get over that when you get older. You don't have anything to prove. You just want high quality waves, beautiful scenery and no crowds. Hopefully, he outgrows it. Also, by all means travel to San Diego. I just find other places far better (friendly people, less crowds, different cultures).

 

I have surfed a bunch empty here, not perfect, usually windy and a bit wonky but fun enough.
i have surfed 2nd and 3rd tier waves on primo swells that were as good as anywhere with only friends out
dont expect to paddle out at name spot on swell days and expect to be lonely
but there are plenty of in between times
there are some breaks here that are no cameras and there are signs saying as such.
that means no pros come to those spots and no camera whores either
no go pro kooks
just people looking to score sic waves away from kooks

 

My life has changed a lot in the last 5 years. I agree with you more than not in most of your thoughts. But there are far better ways to take shots at me, like reminding me that I have nothing but waist high slop to Long Board anymore. I feel like a retiree in the surfing world these days and I am okay with that. And I never filmed myself to "impress" anyone. I just know that one day, I can tell my daughter about where she is from, about what her mom and I used to do and how much I used to surf. And when that day comes, I will tell her to sit down and take a look for herself... It's about memories to me, not about any sort of validation... Never going to enter any video contests. Just going to share memories with my family. My wife has been there every step of the way. Seen me do everything I speak of. Cried on the beach. Told me not to go. And it is only people like her that I give two fu**s about in the grand scheme of things. Take that for what its worth.

 

Exactly! I can identify with that post and holding onto memories. Then, passing those memories to our kids. I also know the feeling of my wife asking me not to go out in big conditions and crying because she was worried. It's crazy but we push it deep inside but are still aware of the consequences, yet we still go for the joy and rush of riding that wave. Once you have kids, everything changes and you don't have anything to prove anymore. You take less risks because of them but still manage to push the limits to a more manageable level. The only people who matter are your family and friends. Not the opinions of anyone else.

As others have said, I'm a little jaded but I try to enjoy surfing as much as possible. I enjoy surfing at home or a far away place.

 

I am with you there. Believe it or not, I have a blast in these ****ty little waves. I take what I can get. I also try not to sound like an old guy holding onto the past all the time, but the honest truth is that I feel most of my better waves are probably behind me. And for a surfer, that is an uneasy feeling and it's hard to deal with, regardless of the truth behind it. I began sitting out on the biggest winter days in 2011-2012 winter when my daughter was born. For once, I was content with NOT going. And it was then that I knew, I should hold on to those memories for as long as I can, because priorities change and the wave in my life became a whole lot smaller. After that winter, I was finally content with leaving. Because I sat out swells, I missed waves and the world kept turning. I was okay with it. At that point, I knew that I could move on to another place.

And now all I have left are a few fisherman stories. Sorry to bore you guys with it. Maybe I need a shrink, not SI.

 

Alright dudes, you're good, everyones happy, let's not get too sensual here. Zach I'm sure you have more good waves to come, maybe not death bombs, and Liam, just return to your spiritual home in New England. No need to start talking about kicking your SI habits.

Come on fellers, I'm Ben, and I've had a problem with SI for the past couple years now.

 

I think we need an in-house pysch team on SI. Hopefully, one that is capable of writing scrips.

 

I got you guys covered.


I think you both made some serious progress today.

 

This is like every sappy surf movie that someone tried to make a story out of instead of just putting surfing to music. I think i just threw up in my mouth a little.

 

Glad I could help.

 

You are refering to your surfing as your body of work? really? How can you possibly get upset when somone thinks your a douche bag when you cop lines like that?

 

holy cow

 

you know how i know zach and liam are ghey?
dang, yo, you two are giving me the doosh chills. I need to hit a strip club on the way home to wash the ghey off me now. thanks a lot.

 

So, I am a douche bag. What else is new?

 

I've been to 10, 12, maybe even 15 different breaks in SoCal across multiple counties. Several of the more prominent ones. Said it before and I'll say it again - SoCal has overall the best lineup functioning and least kooks per square foot than any place I've been to otherwise by far. Only have had one issue at one break one time and that's it. Because of the high functionality of the lineups, I've done fine in larger crowds and we've all enjoyed our rides.

 

LOL

hes so kook he dont even know he kook

lolololololollol
[video=youtube;s7nqgQIZKgw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7nqgQIZKgw[/video]

 

im just judging from your posts but i think moving to the east coast was i big mistake.
you belong in San Diego.