so who went out where and what were your conditions like? My day: 3 piers, pretty big closeouts, bigger than i expected in am. paddled out, over the falls twice, got worked, didnt catch any awesome rides but had so much fun just watchin senior citizens catch these nice rides. and the younger kids gettin fancy....got 4 hours in the water yesterday and i am sated.... lesson learned yesterday: bigger waves = more power/speed= less reaction time= violent wipe outs= be more selective on the waves ur gonna charge..... and respect to chad from jacksonville. a class act and a skilled surfer......
another front for this wknd, with another stacked behind it, could be a good wknd. hopefully my ankle will have healed by then...
waves today. im hittin it after 3 on a south facing. gonna be serious chop and sideshore but i cant get out tomorrow.....give ya an update this evening. tomorrow am should be cleaner i think......
yes there was waves. i got in (the water) and after 30 minutes i look up and the surfers had mutiplied to 5. choppy waist sets. just good fun, after lookin for a J O B....... had my first snake experience....this one cat has to get every wave... its like comeon man beautiful one rolls thru u get it and i get the next nope hes coming down on me on the next......
yea, its looking pretty fun today, but my ankle is still in pretty bad shape so I didnt want to push my luck. I'll give it another few days and if it isnt to the point where I feel comfy walking/running, Im heading to the Dr to make sure something isnt fubared.
i actuaaly just got in (thought yesterday i wouldnt be able to) ne ways was pretty chill saw lots of peeps i didnt recognize.... iwas only one trying the outside...it was cool but the wait was gettin me antsy....there were some good ones. is it me or does it seem like the first wave is always the best. everytime i go out i catch a very fullfilling ride first wave and trhen im left chasing the next great wave like a piece of crack but never get it......funny monday tuesday will be fun.....i can only take one day of that big **** a week right now....thoswe wipe outs are pretty intense. huge difference in wiping on a 3 ft wave as opposed to a 6 ft wave......lmao everyone have fun. domatr hope your ankle feels better
me too the supposed swell mon-tues is why I am choosing to sit this one out. Id rather let my ankle heal and be able to surf head high nugz than risk further injury by getting back in the water too soon. glad you scored some waves today when you thought you wouldnt, its always a nice surprise Ive almost always found the 1st wave of a set (if thats what you mean) on the gulf to be the one to take, 2nd/3rd waves tend to close out more often than not. if your talking about literally your first wave, all I can say is calm yourself, and try and find the rhythm of the waves/ocean.
it looks like I might have blown it today.... Ive heard from several people it was really fun, waist/chest all day and it got more glassier as the day progressed.
Yesterday had the craziest visual thing happening... The sun was behind all this fog and was a brhite white blob with waves comin out. Could barely see the outside and surfed well past sundown... eerie. barrely. closeout-y. Def got tubed... Water was soo much warmer too
